Canning, Preserving and Jelly Making

How your great-grandmother filled the cellar every autumn: the 1915 standard guide to canning, preserving, pickling and jelly making.

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Pickled Mushrooms

Wash thoroughly, and, if of convenient size, put whole into glass jars. Set these on the rack of a steam kettle (with a cloth on the rack beneath the cans). Put in warm water to cover the rack and let steam fifteen minutes. Have ready enough vinegar scalded, with peppercorns, cloves, mustard seed, celery seed, bay leaves, and chili peppers, to fill the jars. Pour this into the jars. Adjust the rubbers and covers, and let cook five or six minutes, then screw down the covers, and set aside. A tablespoonful of mixed spices will be enough for a quart jar.

Pickled Mushrooms No. 2 If the Agaricus campestris be the variety to be pickled, remove the caps from the stems or leave them in place as desired. Peel the caps and put them into fruit jars; for each two jars desired, take a third jar and partially fill it with the mushrooms. Set the jars on a folded towel, laid on the rack of a steam kettle, and pour in cold water to come half way to the top of the jars; put the lids over the jars and cover the kettle. Let cook three fourths an hour after boiling begins, then fill the two jars from the third. Have ready a quart or more of vinegar, scalded, with two tablespoonfuls of assorted spices, cloves, mace, celery seed, mustard seed, tiny, red-pepper pods, black pepper-corns and the like. Pour the vinegar into the jars to fill them to overflow; adjust the rubbers and covers and let cool in the kettle.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a home-canning procedure for a low-acid vegetable, and it falls outside every current safety guideline. The notes below explain the specific failures rather than offering a corrected method.

A Little History

Pickled mushrooms belong to a long English and American tradition of preserving fungi in vinegar and spice, alongside mushroom ketchup and mushroom powder, all of them ways of keeping a crop that appears suddenly in pastures after rain and rots within days. The naming of Agaricus campestris in the second method reads as a period marker: household books of what appears on stylistic grounds to be the turn of the century were often written for readers who might gather the common field mushroom themselves, though the name covered cultivated mushrooms too, and popular mycology guides for the amateur collector were being published in the same decades. The spice mixture here — cloves, mace, celery seed, mustard seed, peppercorns and small red pods — is the standard "mixed pickling spice" of the era, measured by the tablespoon per quart. What the recipe also records is the state of home canning before the science caught up: heating jars on a rack over water, pouring in scalded vinegar, and trusting the vinegar to do the rest, and the hazards of low-acid canning were not widely understood by domestic cooks until well into the twentieth century.

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