Breakfast Puffs

A three-ingredient batter baked in the popover manner. Success depends almost entirely on a screaming-hot pan and an oven left shut.

• Bake same as Pop-oversThe original gives no temperature or time, only the cross-reference to the book's popover directions. In modern terms popovers want a hot oven to start and a lower finish, roughly half an hour in all.
• The panPeriod cooks used cast-iron gem pans or deep earthenware cups. A modern popover pan or a heavy muffin tin works; grease it well and heat it empty in the oven until the fat shimmers before the batter goes in.
• Fill only half fullThe batter is thin, roughly the consistency of heavy cream, and it climbs. Half-filled cups give the steam room to lift the shell.
• No egg in this batterUnlike a standard popover, this one relies on steam alone from the milk and water. Without egg for structure expect a shallower rise and a softer, more fragile wall, so handle them gently coming out of the pan.
• SeasoningThere is no salt in the list. A scant quarter teaspoon beaten into the liquid improves them considerably and does not affect the rise.
• Beat it hardThe egg-beater is not decorative. Beating aerates the batter and develops just enough gluten to hold the steam; a whisk or a blender for 30 seconds does the same job.
• Keep the door shutOpening the oven in the first 20 minutes drops the temperature and collapses the puffs before their walls have set.
• YieldAbout six puffs in a standard popover pan, or eight in muffin cups. Serve at once, straight from the pan, with butter.