Clam Frappe

A frozen clam broth, meant to be eaten with a spoon from a small glass. The whole dish is the liquor the clams give up as they steam, so nothing should be added that dilutes or salts it further.

• The clamsThe recipe specifies only twenty clams; small hard-shells such as littlenecks or cherrystones suit a clear liquor better than soft-shells or large chowder clams. Scrub the shells under running water and discard any that stay shut after steaming.
• Grit is the real enemyChanging the water several times serves to purge sand, and the recipe does not say what the liquor is strained through. Let the clams sit in cold water 20 minutes between changes, and strain the finished liquor through a coffee filter or doubled cheesecloth.
• Steaming timeCovered tightly over medium heat, small clams open in 5 to 8 minutes. Pull them as they open rather than waiting for the last holdout, or the earliest ones toughen.
• No seasoningClam liquor is already salty, often 1 to 2 percent salt. Taste before you consider adding anything; if it is fierce, cut it with a little more cold water before freezing rather than after.
• "Freeze to a mush"In the period this meant a hand-cranked freezer packed in ice and rock salt, worked only until the mixture was slushy. Pour the cold liquor into a shallow metal pan, freeze, and scrape with a fork every 20 to 30 minutes until it is a coarse slush, roughly 2 hours.
• Do not freeze solidSalted broth freezes below 32F and will set as a hard, briny brick if left overnight. If it does, break it up in a food processor and refreeze for 20 minutes.
• YieldTwenty small clams plus the 1/2 cup of added water give something over a cup of liquor, enough for two small glasses. Serve at once, in chilled glasses.