Cocoanut Cream Pie

A blind-baked shell filled with a stirred cornstarch-free custard thickened with flour, in the style of turn-of-the-century cream pies. The crust technique is the part worth copying.

• The inverted-tin trickDraping pastry over the outside of an upturned pie tin lets it bake without slumping or needing weights, then it lifts off and is settled inside the tin as directed. Prick it well as the recipe says; the recipe gives no oven temperature or time, so bake in a hot oven until dry and lightly coloured.
• Rich milkPeriod usage generally means whole (unhomogenised) milk, sometimes with a little cream added. Whole milk will do; a splash of cream stirred in gets closer to the intended richness.
• CocoanutPackaged shredded coconut of the era was generally unsweetened, and often dried rather than moist. Modern sweetened flake will make the filling noticeably sweeter; if you use it, reduce the sugar to taste.
• Cooking the custardWhisk the flour, sugar and salt with the beaten eggs, temper in the scalded milk, then cook over low heat or in a double boiler, stirring constantly, until it thickens and the raw flour taste is gone -- about 8 to 10 minutes. Flour-thickened custards must reach a bare simmer to lose their pastiness, but eggs will curdle over direct high heat.
• AssemblyStir in the coconut off the heat, pour into the cooled shell, and chill at least three hours before cutting. A cream pie filled while hot will soften the crust it was so carefully baked to protect.
• YieldNo pan size or yield is given; the quantity of filling suits a smaller shell (about 8 inches) and would be shallow in a 9-inch.