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Cocoanut Filling
Whites 2 eggs Fresh grated cocoanut Powdered sugar Beat whites of eggs on a platter with a fork until stiff. Add enough powdered sugar to spread. Spread over cake, sprinkle thickly with cocoanut. Use for layer cake, having filling between and on top.
This is an uncooked meringue-style frosting: raw egg white beaten with powdered sugar, never heated at any stage. That single fact governs everything below.
- The eggs are never cookedThe whites are beaten on a platter and spread straight onto a finished cake. Nothing in the method brings them near the 160F at which Salmonella in egg white is reliably killed, and a sugar-and-egg frosting sitting at room temperature on a layer cake is a growth medium rather than a preservative. A current recipe using pasteurised whites or a cooked syrup method should be used instead.
- Why 1900 was less worriedWhy the period was less worried -- Eggs in this era were generally used closer to laying and stored in a cool larder, though how far that held in any given household is not documented. Modern distribution, longer shelf life and the documented rise of egg-associated Salmonella enteritidis in the twentieth century changed the calculation.
- "Cocoanut" means fresh coconutThe older spelling is the same nut. The recipe calls for it freshly grated from the shell, which is moist and sweet-tasting; packaged sweetened shredded coconut is much drier and considerably sweeter, and unsweetened desiccated coconut drier still.
- Powdered sugarThen as now this is finely ground sugar, but period powdered sugar generally lacked the anti-caking starch of modern confectioners' sugar, which stiffens a frosting slightly faster.
- No quantities givenSugar and coconut are both left to judgement: 'enough to spread' and 'sprinkle thickly.' The recipe gives no yield either, though it does direct that the filling go between the layers and on top.
- Beating on a platterBeating whites on a flat platter with a fork is an older hand method; a wide shallow surface lets a fork drag air through a thin film of white. The recipe itself gives no reason for specifying a platter rather than a bowl.