Corn Parker House Rolls

A lean, stiff yeast dough given a quarter of its flour weight in cornmeal. The method is carried over from the plain roll recipe that precedes it in the book, so the shaping and rising are assumed rather than stated.

• Flour and meal by weight3/4 lb bread flour is about 2 3/4 cups, and 1/4 lb cornmeal about 3/4 to 1 cup. Weigh them if you can; the dough is close-textured and small errors show.
• Compressed yeastThe household cakes of compressed (fresh) yeast usually sold in this period ran about 0.6 oz, though larger cakes existed. Substitute 2 1/4 teaspoons active dry or instant yeast, and dissolve dry yeast in part of the lukewarm water first.
• Lukewarm means 100-110FLukewarm means about 100-110F -- Water hot enough to feel warm on the wrist, not hot. Much hotter than that begins to stress the yeast, which matters more here because the dough is heavy with meal and needs all the lift it can get.
• Choose the cornmeal carefullyFine or medium yellow or white meal behaves best. Coarse stone-ground meal cuts the gluten strands and gives a crumbly roll; if that is all you have, scald it with some of the water and let it cool before mixing.
• Hydration is lowA cup and a tablespoon of water to a pound of dry goods gives a firm dough that wants a full knead of 8-10 minutes. It will feel tight at first and slacken as the meal absorbs water.
• Parker House shapingRoll the risen dough about 1/3 inch thick, cut rounds with a 2 1/2-inch cutter, brush with melted butter, crease each round off-centre with the back of a knife and fold the larger flap over. Set them nearly touching on the pan for the second rise.
• OvenBake at 400-425F for 12-15 minutes, until the tops are well browned. The sugar in the dough colours quickly, so watch the last few minutes.
• YieldAbout 18 to 24 rolls, depending on cutter size.