Entire Wheat Griddle-cakes

A standard baking-powder pancake batter with a third of the flour replaced by whole wheat. The only obstacle is the cross-reference, which assumes you have the plain sweet-milk version in front of you.

• Entire wheat flourThis is whole wheat flour, ground from the entire kernel including bran and germ. Modern whole wheat flour is a direct substitute; stone-ground gives the nuttier flavour the name implies.
• The method it points toNot reproduced here, but the standard procedure for such a batter would be: sift the flours, baking powder, salt and sugar together, beat the egg and stir it into the milk, combine wet with dry to a pourable batter, then stir in the melted butter last. Mix only until the flour disappears; a lumpy batter generally makes a tender cake and an overbeaten one a tough, rubbery one.
• Griddle heatAim for about 375F on an electric griddle, or a heavy pan over medium heat where a drop of water skitters rather than sits. Cook until the surface bubbles and the edges look dry, roughly two minutes, then turn once.
• Rest the batterWhole wheat absorbs liquid more slowly than white flour. Ten minutes standing lets the bran hydrate and thickens the batter noticeably, so judge consistency after resting rather than before.
• SugarThree tablespoons is sweeter than most current pancake formulas and will brown quickly. Reduce to one if the cakes are for a savoury plate or are going under syrup anyway.
• Milk and fatWhole milk is what the original means. The single tablespoon of butter is for the batter; the griddle still needs a light film of fat unless it is well seasoned or non-stick.
• YieldAbout twelve four-inch cakes, enough for three or four people.