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Frozen Orange Souffle
1 1/2 cups orange juice 1 1/2 cups sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice Yolks 5 eggs 1 1/2 teaspoons granulated gelatine 3 tablespoons boiling water 2 1/2 cups cream Candied orange peel Pistachio nuts Mix fruit juice, sugar, and yolks of eggs. Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens; then add gelatine dissolved in boiling water. Cool, freeze to a mush, add whip from cream, and continue freezing. Mould, and serve garnished with candied orange peel and pistachio nuts.
This is a frozen custard mousse rather than a baked soufflé; the name refers to its light, aerated body. The whole thing depends on cooking the yolk base to the right thickness and folding the cream in only after the base is partly frozen.
- Cook the custard to 175°FCook the custard gently -- "Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens" means a double boiler and constant stirring until the base coats a spoon; in modern terms that is somewhere around 175-180F, though the book gives no temperature. Take it off the heat once it coats the spoon rather than pushing it further.
- Granulated gelatine1 1/2 teaspoons is about two-thirds of a standard 1/4-oz envelope. Sprinkle it over the 3 tablespoons of water, let it swell a minute, then stir it into the hot custard so it dissolves completely.
- "Whip from cream"Older recipes mean the stiff froth skimmed from the top of partly beaten cream, not the whole beaten mass. Whip the 2 1/2 cups of cream to soft peaks and fold it in; do not beat it to the stiff, grainy stage or the frozen texture turns buttery.
- Freeze to a mush firstThe base must be churned or stirred until it is the consistency of a thick slush before the cream goes in. Added to a liquid base, the whipped cream simply floats and separates.
- Without an ice-cream freezerChill the custard thoroughly, freeze it in a shallow pan, breaking up the ice crystals with a fork every 30 minutes until slushy, then fold in the cream and freeze solid. An ice-cream machine gives a smoother result.
- Moulding"Mould" in a book of this date would most likely have meant a metal mould packed in ice and salt for several hours. A loaf pan or metal bowl lined with plastic wrap and left in the freezer for four hours does the same job; dip the mould briefly in warm water to turn it out.
- PistachiosPeriod recipes used blanched, skinned pistachios for their green colour. Unsalted shelled nuts, roughly chopped, are the modern equivalent; salted cocktail pistachios will fight the sweetness.
- YieldAbout two quarts of finished frozen mixture, enough for ten to twelve servings. It is very rich and wants small portions.