Hunters' Pudding

A plain steamed molasses pudding of the sort meant to cook unattended on the back of the stove while dinner was made. The recipe leans on an earlier entry in the same chapter for method, so the mixing and steaming details need filling in.

• Steaming timeThe original gives none. A pudding of this size needs 2 1/2 to 3 hours of steady steaming in a covered greased mold or basin set on a rack in a pot of simmering water, the water reaching halfway up the mold. Top up with boiling water as it evaporates; if the pot goes dry the pudding scorches.
• Mix same as Suet PuddingThe referenced entry is not reproduced here, so the method has to be inferred. A common period sequence is to rub the chopped suet into the flour, salt, soda and spices, then stir in the molasses and milk to a thick batter. Do not beat it smooth as for a cake; it wants only to be combined.
• Soda and molassesOne teaspoon of soda here is reacting with the acid in the molasses, which is the entire leavening; there are no eggs and no baking powder. Modern molasses may be less acidic than the barrel molasses of the period; unsulphured dark molasses is the nearest common substitute. Get it into the mold and into the steam promptly, as the rise begins at once.
• SuetBeef kidney (or loin) fat, from a butcher, chopped or grated fine while cold. Packaged shredded suet sold for puddings works directly. Frozen suet grates much more easily than fresh.
• Stone the raisinsRaisins were sold with seeds in. Modern seedless raisins need no stoning; "cut" them roughly if large, and toss with the 2 tablespoons of flour so they do not sink to the bottom.
• SpicesGround clove, mace and allspice at 1/2 teaspoon each plus a teaspoon of cinnamon is a strong, old-fashioned hand. Mace is the outer coat of nutmeg and is not interchangeable with it by volume; nutmeg is coarser in flavor, so use a little less if substituting.
• Yield and servingThe mixture runs to roughly 7 1/2 cups, so it wants a mold of about 3 quarts to leave room for the rise, or two smaller molds; serves eight or so. Turn out hot and serve with a hard sauce or a thin sweet pudding sauce; steamed puddings are best hot and reheat well in the steamer.