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Kumquat Jelly
1 1/2 cups kumquat juice 1/2 cup sugar 1/4 cup Sauterne 1 1/2 tablespoons Orange Curacoa 1 tablespoon granulated gelatine 2 tablespoons cold water Few grains salt Wipe three-fourths box kumquats, cut in slices, add cold water to cover, bring slowly to boiling-point, and cook slowly one-half hour; then strain; there should be one and one-half cups juice. Add sugar, wine, and curacoa. Soak gelatine in cold water, and add to first mixture heated to boiling-point; then add salt. Strain, turn into individual mould, and chill. Remove to serving dish, and garnish with halves of kumquats, cooked in syrup until soft, drained, and rolled in sugar.
A clear gelatine mould set with kumquat juice, fortified wine and orange liqueur. The whole recipe hinges on the juice, so measure that rather than the fruit.
- "Three-fourths box" of kumquatsPeriod fruit boxes were not standardized, so treat the fruit quantity as a means to an end: simmer sliced kumquats in just enough water to cover until you can strain off 1 1/2 cups of liquid. Since most of that liquid is the added water, the exact weight of fruit is flexible; buy extra whole ones for the garnish.
- Gelatine quantityOne tablespoon of granulated gelatine is close to one modern 1/4-oz envelope (about 7 g, a scant tablespoon), enough to set the roughly two cups of liquid here to an unmoulding consistency. If you want a softer, spoonable set, use rather less and expect to serve it in glasses.
- Do not boil the gelatineHeat the juice mixture to boiling, then take it off the heat before stirring in the softened gelatine. Prolonged boiling weakens gelatine's setting power, and the recipe's wording invites overcooking.
- Sauterne and Curacoa"Sauterne" without the final s may be the anglicised spelling of French Sauternes, or the generic American label later used for a semi-sweet white; either way, an off-dry white works, and true Sauternes gives more perfume. "Orange Curacoa" is orange curaçao — Grand Marnier or Cointreau will substitute.
- The alcohol staysThe alcohol -- The wine and liqueur are added to the juice, and that mixture is then brought to boiling-point, so some of the alcohol cooks off; a portion will still remain. Worth knowing if you are serving children or anyone avoiding it.
- Strain twiceKumquat juice carries fine pulp and oil from the peel that clouds the finished jelly. Strain the cooked juice through a sieve, then strain again through damp cheesecloth after the gelatine goes in, as directed.
- BitternessThe pith and seeds give up bitterness during the half-hour simmer. Simmer gently and do not press or mash the fruit through the strainer; let it drip.
- Chilling and yieldAllow at least four hours in the refrigerator, or overnight. As written this fills four to six individual moulds; dip them briefly in warm water to release.
- The candied garnishHalve kumquats and cook them in a simple syrup (equal sugar and water) until translucent and tender, 20 to 30 minutes, then drain well and roll in granulated sugar. They must be dry to the touch or the sugar dissolves into slush.