Orange Puffs

A plain creamed butter cake baked in small tins; the orange comes entirely from the sauce poured over it. The batter is straightforward, and the only real decisions are pan size and baking time, neither of which the original gives.

• "Mix same as Cottage Pudding"Cream the butter with the sugar, beat in the eggs one at a time, then add the milk alternately with the flour and baking powder sifted together, beginning and ending with the flour. Stir only until the flour disappears; overbeating at that stage toughens the crumb.
• Tins and yield"Individual tins" means gem or muffin pans, or small dariole moulds. Fill about two-thirds full; the batter makes roughly 12 standard muffin-sized puffs.
• Oven and timeThe original gives no heat or time. A moderate oven, around 375F, for 20 to 25 minutes suits small cakes of this size; bake until the tops spring back and a skewer comes out clean, and allow longer for deeper dariole moulds.
• Baking powderThree teaspoons to 1 3/4 cups flour is generous by current practice. Two teaspoons of modern double-acting powder will give ample lift.
• Butter and salt1/3 cup is 5 tablespoons plus a teaspoon; measure it soft, not melted. No salt is called for; add 1/4 teaspoon if you use unsalted butter.
• The sauce is not optionalNothing in the batter tastes of orange, so the puffs are plain eaten alone. Orange sauces of the period range from a cornstarch-thickened syrup of orange juice, zest, sugar and butter to a creamed butter-and-sugar sauce; either is served over the puffs.
• ServingThese are meant hot, straight from the tins. Reheated the next day they are dry; if you must hold them, warm them covered and be liberal with the sauce.