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Orange Sauce (Cup water cup orange juice cup)

1 cup water 1/2 cup orange juice 1/3 cup sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 egg yolk, if desired A few grains salt Stir the cornstarch smooth with a little cold water. Heat the one cup of cold water to boiling, and stir into it the cornstarch mixture. Let it boil gently two minutes. Add the sugar and salt and the grated yellow rind of half an orange. Be careful to grate off only the very outside yellow part of the rind. If a richer sauce is desired, after thickening the water with the cornstarch stir a little of the sauce into the egg yolk and mix well, then stir the egg yolk into the sauce; then add the orange juice.

For the Modern Kitchen

A cornstarch-thickened pudding sauce of the plain sort that filled out dessert menus before whipped cream and custard sauces became everyday. It comes together in under ten minutes and needs almost no equipment.

A Little History

Cornstarch sauces like this one belong to the era when commercial corn starch, sold in boxes from the mid-nineteenth century onward, gave American home cooks a cheap thickener that behaved predictably and did not require eggs or long reduction. Domestic-science cookbooks of the period leaned on them heavily: a sweet starch sauce could dress up a plain steamed or boiled pudding at almost no cost, and the optional egg yolk here is exactly the sort of graduated economy such books liked to offer -- make it plain on a Tuesday, make it rich for company. The insistence on grating only the outer yellow rind reflects a genuine point of technique rather than fussiness, since the white pith is where the bitterness lives.

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