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Pistachio Fruit Ice Cream
3 cups milk 1 1/2 cups sugar Yolks 5 eggs 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 pint heavy cream 1 1/2 cups chestnut puree 1 teaspoon almond extract 1 tablespoon vanilla 3/4 cup glace fruits Maraschino Green coloring Make a custard of first four ingredients, strain, cool; add cream, chestnut puree, flavoring, and glace fruit cut in pieces and previously soaked in Maraschino three hours. Color with leaf green; freeze, mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Serve with Fruit Sauce. Drain syrup from a pint jar of canned strawberry, raspberry, or pineapple, heat to boiling-point, thicken slightly with arrowroot, and color with fruit red.
A rich frozen custard in the old French style: cooked base, heavy cream, chestnut pur e folded through, and glac e fruit steeped in maraschino. Nothing here is difficult, but several of the ingredients and the freezing method need translating.
- Start the soaking firstThe glac e fruit needs three hours in maraschino before it goes into the base, and the custard needs to be thoroughly cold. Chop the fruit, cover it with liqueur, and make the custard while it sits.
- Custard temperatureFive yolks in three cups of milk with the sugar and salt want to be cooked over low heat or in a double boiler to 170-180F, until the mixture coats a spoon. Strain immediately into a cold bowl; the recipe's instruction to strain is there to catch any threads of set egg.
- Chestnut pur eUse unsweetened chestnut pur e, not the sweetened cr eme de marrons sold in tubes, or the ice cream will be cloying. Canned pur e is often stiff — loosen it with a little of the cooled custard before adding the rest, or it will stay in lumps.
- MaraschinoThis means maraschino liqueur, the clear Italian cherry spirit, not the neon cocktail cherries that later took the name. The small amount of alcohol carried in with the fruit may soften the finished texture slightly.
- Leaf green and fruit redThese were commercial colouring preparations of the day, sold ready-made. Modern gel food colouring gives the same effect; a very small amount is enough, as the custard is already yellow from the yolks and will pull green toward olive.
- Freezing and packingChurn in an ice cream maker until thick, pack into a chilled mould, and harden. The original's two hours "in salt and ice" is a hardening step -- a home freezer does the same in three to four hours. If you do use a salt-ice pack, proportions vary by source, somewhere in the range of one part rock salt to three to six parts crushed ice.
- The sauceArrowroot thickens at just below boiling and thins again if held at a hard boil, so stir in a slurry of one to two teaspoons per cup of syrup, bring it barely to the point of thickening, and take it off. It should be glossy and pourable, not a gel.
- YieldAbout two quarts, or twelve to sixteen servings from a mould. Let it stand ten minutes at room temperature before unmoulding and slicing.