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Pudding Glace
2 cups milk 2/3 cup raisins 1 cup sugar 1 egg 1 tablespoon flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 quart thin cream 1/2 cup almonds 1/2 cup candied pineapple 1/3 cup Canton ginger 3 tablespoons wine Scald raisins in milk fifteen minutes, strain, make custard of milk, egg, sugar, flour, and salt; strain, cool, add pineapple, ginger cut in small pieces, nuts finely chopped, wine, and cream; then freeze. The raisins should be rinsed and saved for a pudding.
Frozen Pudding I 2 1/2 cups milk 1 cup sugar 1/8 teaspoonful salt 2 eggs 1 cup heavy cream 1/4 cup rum 1 cup candied fruit, cherries, pineapples, pears, and apricots Cut fruit in small pieces, and soak two or three hours in brandy to cover, which prevents fruit from freezing; make a custard of milk, sugar, salt, and eggs; strain, cool, add cream and run, then freeze. Fill a brick mould with alternate layers of the cream and fruit; pack in salt and ice and let stand two hours.
A frozen custard in the old style: a cooked egg base flavoured with candied fruit and spirits, churned and then packed to ripen. The raisins here are only a flavouring agent for the milk, which surprises most cooks reading it for the first time.
- The raisin stepScalding the raisins in the milk perfumes the dairy; the fruit itself is then strained out and, as the recipe says, put aside for a pudding. Do not leave them in, or they will freeze to gravel in the finished cream.
- Cook the custard properlyMilk, egg, sugar, flour and salt should be stirred over gentle heat until the mixture thickens and coats a spoon. The tablespoon of flour helps keep a single egg from curdling and gives body; a starch-thickened base can take a brief simmer to lose any raw-starch taste.
- "Thin cream"Roughly what is sold now as light or single cream, about 18 to 20 percent fat. A quart of it against two cups of milk makes a very rich mix; half-and-half is the closest common substitute.
- Canton gingerStem ginger preserved in heavy syrup, once sold in squat Chinese stoneware jars. Jarred stem ginger in syrup, drained and diced, is the same thing; crystallised ginger works but is drier and sweeter.
- "3 tablespoons wine"Unspecified in the original; a fortified wine such as sherry or Madeira is the likeliest reading. Alcohol lowers the freezing point, so more than a few tablespoons will leave the mixture soft and slushy.
- FreezingIn a modern ice cream maker, churn the chilled base until thick, then fold in the fruit and nuts by hand at the end so the pieces stay suspended rather than being battered by the dasher.
- Packing in salt and iceThis is the ripening stage: a filled mould buried in crushed ice and rock salt for two hours firms and mellows the pudding. A freezer at 0F does the same job; give it three to four hours in a loaf tin covered with parchment and foil.
- YieldThe first recipe makes roughly two quarts and will serve ten to twelve; the frozen pudding that follows makes rather less.