Quality Paste
2 cups flour 1/4 cup lard 3/4 cup butter Ice water Put flour in bowl, add lard, and cut it in with knife. When finely chopped add water to make a very stiff dough, using as little as possible. Cut the butter into the dough leaving it in rather coarse pieces. Chill in icebox for several hours or over night. Place ball of paste on floured cloth, pat and roll out. Fold so as to make three layers, turn half way round, pat and roll out. Pat, roll and fold four times, shape and bake at once in hot oven.
This is a rough puff paste: the butter goes in as visible lumps rather than being rubbed in, and the layers are built by folding rather than by encasing a butter block. Everything depends on keeping that butter cold and distinct.
- The hingeThe butter must stay in coarse, separate pieces through every fold. If it smears into the dough you get a short crust rather than flakes; if the kitchen is warm, return the dough to the refrigerator between turns.
- Measurements2 cups flour is about 250 g, 3/4 cup butter is 1 1/2 sticks (170 g), 1/4 cup lard about 50 g. Ice water is unmeasured on purpose; the recipe asks for as little as possible, so add it a spoonful at a time and stop as soon as the dough holds together stiffly.
- SaltNone is listed; butter of the period was usually salted. With modern unsalted butter add 1/2 teaspoon of fine salt to the flour.
- "Cut it in with knife"Two knives scissored through the bowl, or a pastry blender. A food processor is workable for the lard stage only; add the butter by hand so the pieces survive.
- IceboxAn icebox ran warmer and damper than a modern refrigerator, so the chilling time can be somewhat shorter at modern refrigerator temperature, though the dough still needs long enough to firm through. Overnight is still better for hydration and handling.
- Hot oven425 to 450F. Puff paste needs the initial blast to turn the water in the butter to steam and lift the layers; a moderate oven melts the butter out and leaves the pastry flat and greasy.
- "Bake at once"Take this literally for the shaped pastry, but chill the shaped pieces 15 minutes if the dough has softened while you worked. What must not happen is a long rest at room temperature between rolling and the oven.
- Floured clothA pastry cloth keeps the dough from picking up excess flour. A lightly floured counter and a bench scraper do the same job.
- YieldEnough for a double-crust 9-inch pie, two single crusts, or about a dozen small tart shells or patty cases.