Snow Cake

A small white butter cake that leans on the standard creaming method the book assumes you already know. The only real gaps are the oven temperature and what "deep narrow pan" means.

• Oven temperatureNo heat is given here; the book leaves it to the general butter-cake instructions, which in books of this kind often say no more than "moderate oven." A modern equivalent is 350F; a cake this deep set much hotter will dome and crack before the centre sets.
• "Deep narrow pan"A loaf pan, roughly 8 x 4 inches, is the modern equivalent. In an 8-inch round or square the batter runs shallow and will be done in about 25 to 30 minutes rather than forty-five.
• Mixing methodCream the butter and sugar, add the milk alternately with the flour sifted with the baking powder, then fold in the whites beaten to soft peaks last. Folding, not beating, at that final stage is what keeps the crumb light.
• Egg whitesTwo whites from modern large eggs come to about 2 fluid ounces (60 ml). Room-temperature whites whip more easily and to greater volume than cold ones.
• Baking powderTwo and a half teaspoons is a heavy hand by current standards for 1 2/3 cups of flour. Two teaspoons of a modern double-acting powder gives ample lift without a metallic aftertaste.
• FlourHousehold flour of the period varied a good deal, and some of it was softer than today's all-purpose. Cake flour gives the finer, whiter crumb the name promises; all-purpose works but bakes a little firmer.
• Almond extractThe quarter teaspoon is half the vanilla measure, which fits the fact that almond extract is far more assertive. Do not increase it.
• Doneness and yieldA skewer in the centre should come out clean and the loaf should pull slightly from the sides of the pan. One loaf, eight to ten slices.
• The leftover yolksTwo yolks are left over. Cover and refrigerate them for custard, mayonnaise or a gold cake within a day or two.