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Black Currant Cup

To one quart of weak green tea add half a pint of black currant juice; sweeten to taste and chill thoroughly before serving.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-ingredient cooler that depends entirely on the tea being weak enough to stay in the background. Everything else is adjustment.

A Little History

Fruit "cups" — a base of tea, wine or water lengthened with fruit juice and sugar — filled the beverage chapters of American and British household books from roughly the late nineteenth century onward, a vogue often attributed to temperance sentiment, which is said to have made a cold, sweet, non-spirituous drink the expected thing for afternoon calls and church socials. Black currant was a natural choice in the British tradition, where the fruit was long grown for jelly and for cordials taken against sore throats; its sharpness stands up to dilution in a way that sweeter berries do not. Its rarity in American kitchens has a specific cause: black currants host white pine blister rust, and beginning around 1911 federal and state authorities restricted or banned currant cultivation to protect the timber industry, with many state prohibitions lasting into the 1960s and later. A recipe like this one reads differently on either side of that line — an ordinary summer drink before, an exotic one after.

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