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Chicken en Casserole

Dress a young chicken and cut in pieces for serving. Melt three tablespoons of butter in an omelet pan, add an onion and a small carrot, each cut in slices, add the chicken and cook until delicately browned. Remove to the casserole, add one and one-half cups of white stock and a bit of bay leaf. Cover and let cook an hour or until nearly tender, then add some potatoes cut in slices and a few mushrooms sauted in butter, season with salt and pepper and cook until tender. Add three tablespoons of sherry and serve at once.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward braise, written when "casserole" still meant the pot rather than what came out of it. The main adjustment is time: an hour of simmering was aimed at a bird with far more connective tissue than anything sold today.

A Little History

The phrase en casserole appears in American cookbooks around the turn of the twentieth century along with a wave of French-inspired one-pot cookery, and for a while it described a method rather than a category: food cooked and brought to the table in the same earthenware pot, as distinct from a stew turned out into a dish. The white stock, the bay leaf and the finishing spoonful of sherry are the marks of that borrowed French idiom, filtered through American domestic-science writing; within a generation "casserole" had drifted in the United States to mean the baked dish itself, which is why the title reads oddly now.

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