Compote of Marshmallows

An assembled fruit compote with no quantities, no timings and no yield — the sort of contributed recipe that assumes the cook already knows what a company dessert looks like. A few of the ingredients are not what they were.

• ProportionsNothing is measured. For six servings, work from about 4 peach halves, 3 oranges, a cup of marshmallows, half a cup of pecans and a cup of cream whipped to soft peaks, with 8-10 cherries for the top.
• "The fruit juice"Most likely the syrup drained from the jar of preserved peaches, though with fresh fruit it would simply be the juice released by the cut peaches and oranges. Either way use it sparingly — two or three tablespoons is enough to moisten the fruit, and more will thin the cream into soup.
• Fresh marshmallowsThe recipe's 'fresh' points to confectioners' marshmallows, which were sold loose and soft from candy counters rather than pre-packaged, and were generally softer than the modern bagged sort. Modern miniature marshmallows are the closest match; standard-size ones should be quartered with scissors dipped in water.
• Maraschino cherriesThe name originally meant Marasca cherries steeped in maraschino liqueur, tart and dark, but cheaper brined-and-dyed imitations were already common in America by the early twentieth century, and either may be meant. A jar of cherries in syrup or luxardo-style cherries is nearer the older sense.
• OrangesQuartering an orange leaves the tough membrane in the dish. Segment them free of pith and skin instead, and do it over a bowl so the juice is caught.
• PecansToast them dry at 350F for six or seven minutes and cool before adding. Raw pecans go soft and slightly slimy against wet fruit.
• Holding timeAssemble no more than an hour or two ahead and chill. Marshmallows dissolve into the syrup if left overnight, and unsweetened whipped cream begins to weep — a teaspoon of sugar and a little cream whipped very cold hold up best.
• ServingLayer in a glass bowl or individual coupes so the fruit shows. Serves six as written above.