TEA TERMS

It will be noted that the titles originally applied exclusively to the China product have extended to nearly all teas, irrespective of their place of growth or manufacture. A majority are corruptions of local Chinese terms, as for example:--

"Oolong," from ou-loung, "black dragon," referring to the black leaves mixed with the greenish-yellow.

"Hyson," from hetsien, "spring time," the season of the first and second pickings.

"Young Hyson," from yii-tsien, "before the rains," or "young spring time."

"Pekoe," from pak-ho, "white hair"--referring to the down on the young leaves.

"Souchong," from siaou-chung, "small sprouts."

"Congou," from kung-fu, "labor."

"Gunpowder" tea is an Anglo-Saxon name, originally suggested by its small round form. It is called choo-cha, or "Pearl tea," by the Chinese.

Retailing Tea.

The demand for tea has so greatly increased during the last few years that retailers find it profitable to give it special attention. Only good dependable varieties should be stocked, and when a satisfactory line is established and selling well, it is usually the wisest policy to avoid making any changes, as the average tea-drinker becomes used to one particular flavor and prefers it to anything new.

In purchasing, the first and most important test is that of flavor when brewed. Next comes the appearance of the leaf in bulk and individually. Generally speaking, the best qualities are small and more or less tightly curled--with variations as noted in the descriptions of different types. Young tea is easily chewed to a pulp, and fresh Black Tea is smooth and elastic when pressed in the fingers.

For the flavor test, the requirements are a scale of the style ordinarily used by druggists (cost about $5) and a dozen small china cups of equal size. The old rule for sampling was to weigh the equivalent of a silver 5-cent piece into each cup, pour boiling water over and taste when sufficiently cool. As the silver 5-cent piece has gone out of use, the easiest method for the average person is to weigh the equivalent of a dime and put half of the quantity into the testing cup. It would be useless to attempt to impart any detailed rules by which to discriminate, as only experience and constant application--with a fine palate as an initial qualification--can produce a really proficient tea-taster.

Success in catering to consumers requires a knowledge of individual tastes--there is a tea to suit everyone, if you know what each one's preference is. As a general thing, one can count on a good sale of Oolongs, Mixed and English Breakfast, when the neighborhood has no particular race characteristics. Ceylon and India and Oolongs are most popular where English and Irish people are especially numerous.

Blending, Storage, Etc.

The highest branch of the tea-merchant's calling is found in the blending of teas--the mixing of different styles and strength to produce special results--but for the retailer without good experience to attempt it, is rather risky. To produce an especially pleasing blend is not an easy matter, and to repeat it is still more difficult--and it is very undesirable to establish a demand for a particular flavor if you are unable to continue supplying it. The art is fascinating--and profitable if successfully conducted--but first experiments should be on a very small and conscientiously recorded scale, and they should be accompanied by a close study of the literature of the business, for there are many points--the comparative keeping qualities of different varieties, for example--in addition to flavor and aroma, which must be very carefully considered.

Tea, whether in bulk or package, should always be kept in a moderately cool, dry place, away from all other articles of distinctive smell. Not only cheese and similar strong smelling articles, but even the aroma of oranges, lemons, etc., will affect it. Dampness will spoil it utterly by starting secondary fermentation, and exposure to the air, if in bulk, will cause it to lose flavor, strength and aroma.

Tea naturally keeps fresh best in tight-fitting canisters and in sealed tin or lead packages, but it deteriorates with age no matter how packed. A retailer who is jealous of his reputation should sell no tea of any kind--package or otherwise--that is more than six to nine months old.

Tea Analysis and Its Use as a Beverage.

The most important components of the tea-leaf of commerce are (1) Theine, the chief stimulating principle, usually placed by analysis at from 2% to 3 1/2% (2) the oil and resinous ingredients, which furnish the flavor and aroma of the liquid, and (3) the tannin and gummy substances, which give it "body" and strength. There is, in addition, a small quantity of essential oil, which slightly increases the stimulating properties.

Chemical analysis shows also a large percentage--40% to 60%--of protein, cellulose, fibre, etc.--but nearly all of this is found in the residue, the "tea-leaves," left after making the liquid. The greater part of the tannin, which averages from 12% to 18%, meets the same fate if the tea is fresh made.

To enjoy the best qualities of any variety--and also the best physiological effect--tea drinkers should bear in mind that, (1) the water used must be both fresh and boiling; (2) the pot in which the infusion is made must be kept hot, but not boiling, for from three to five minutes after pouring in; and (3) the tea must not stand longer than three to five minutes before drinking.

If the water used is not fresh--i. e., if it has been standing long or been previously boiled--the tea will be flat in flavor. If it is not actually boiling at the time of pouring on the leaves, the result will be a rough, raw taste. A china or earthen pot is better than a metal one. A pot warmed before putting in the dry leaves, is better than a cold one.

The fresh-brewed liquid (after a three to five minutes infusion) contains nearly the total amount of the theine (which corresponds to the caffeine in coffee) and only enough tannin, etc., to give it palatable strength. If it is allowed to stand on the leaves longer than five minutes, its flavor will be injured by the excess of tannin developed; if longer than seven minutes, the tannin will not only detract from the flavor, but also tend to render the beverage a detriment to digestion. The brewed tea can, however, be saved for later use, either hot or cold, if poured off the leaves into a china or earthen vessel.

The quantity of leaves required to make good tea depends both on individual tastes and on different varieties. India and Ceylon are generally stronger than China and Japan.

The result is also frequently affected by the water supply--the water in some localities makes much better tea than is possible in others. Some authorities assert that the quality of the water should be considered as a factor when making a blend--that water containing an excessive amount of lime or other mineral matter, requires the stronger, coarser varieties of leaf, and that the delicate types produce their fine flavor and aroma only when the water is "soft." This is disputed by other experts, who assert that the "best tea" is the best everywhere, though it will display its qualities to better advantage under favorable conditions.

To make good Iced Tea use from one-quarter to one-third more of the leaf than for tea to be served hot. Prepare the beverage just as carefully, and do not allow it to stand on the leaves for longer than five to seven minutes. Pour the liquid off into another vessel and allow it to cool gradually. It should always be made two or three hours before serving, to give it time to cool gradually. To chill hot tea by setting in the refrigerator or putting ice in it, is to spoil its flavor. When ready to serve, add ice, lemon, sugar, etc., according to taste.

Brick Tea: consists of leaf and dust shaped by pressure into cakes, divided by indented lines into small, easily separated squares, which expand when put into boiling water. It is manufactured in large quantities in China, both for local consumption in various sections and for export to Tibet, Siberia and elsewhere, serving as a standard article of barter for numerous commodities produced in those countries. It is generally transported, often for great distances, on the backs of the hard working native "coolies" or porters. The illustration on page 631 shows the peculiar method of arranging a "pack," the long bundles of bricks, wrapped in matting, being piled sail-fashion on a cane frame fastened on the porter's back. For months at a time there is an almost continuous procession of these coolies along the roads to Tachien-lu, a little frontier city cramped within mountains, which serves as the general mart for Chinese and Tibetan traders, the latter bringing musk and gold dust to exchange for the tea.

Caddy or Tea Caddy: a small chest, box or canister, or a chest containing several canisters, for packing or holding tea. The word was adapted from the Chinese Catty, a small measure of tea, as a title for the characteristic oriental tea packages themselves. Catty was derived from the Malay Kati, a little more than a pound. Large quantities of imitation oriental caddies are now made in this country and used by grocers to repack tea. They are shipped in "nests," the smaller sizes fitting into the larger, thus giving a wide variety of size and occupying very little space.

When used as a measure, the word "caddy" now generally signifies any package containing less than a half Chest. A Chinese Chest is equivalent to about 82 pounds or 3/5 of a Pecul (about 139 Ibs.). The India and Ceylon Chest contains 90 pounds.

Tea Tablets: consist of Tea Dust or finely ground tea pressed into squares or cubes for use by campers, etc.

Tile Tea: is a kind of flat Brick Tea made in China, exported by way of Keachti and distributed throughout Siberia by Armenians and Tartars. It is cooked with milk, butter, salt and herbs and eaten as a vegetable.