Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

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Boned Chicken

I pair of year old chickens 1 cup of stale bread crumbs ½ pound of sausage meat 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 cup of stale bread crumbs 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper Singe the chickens, cut off the heads and feet. The one that has the smoothest and best skin should be boned carefully for the outside; the other one may be used for the inside.

For the Modern Kitchen

The text as printed breaks off after the boning instruction, and the crumbs are listed twice, so treat this as a framework for a classic galantine rather than a complete method. The hinge is the boning: the outer bird's skin must come away in one unbroken sheet, because it is the casing that holds everything together.

A Little History

Boned and stuffed poultry of this type is a galantine, a dish generally traced to French professional cookery, where a bird is boned, filled with a forcemeat made partly from its own flesh, rolled, poached in stock and served cold in slices with its own jelly. The appeal of such a dish in warm weather is obvious: the work is done early, the roll chills, and it is carved cold with no fire needed at the last minute. The two-bird arrangement is economical in its own right -- the second chicken supplies the meat for the stuffing, and the carcasses and trimmings would make gelatinous stock to set around the finished roll, though the recipe as printed says only to cut the feet off and does not mention stock at all.

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