Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

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Cold Corn

Cold corn left from dinner may be cut from the cob, covered with milk, and stewed five minutes. Season with a bit of butter, salt and pepper.

For the Modern Kitchen

A leftovers dish in three lines: cooked corn cut from the cob, warmed briefly in milk, finished with butter. The whole point is speed, so treat the five minutes as a maximum rather than a target.

A Little History

Creamed corn of this kind is a direct descendant of the older American habit of scraping the cob for its starchy liquid, a technique generally traced to Native cookery and absorbed into colonial and later domestic practice. Sweet corn was a strictly seasonal glut before refrigeration and canning were universal, so a recipe that rescued yesterday's boiled ears was less a novelty than an obligation.

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