Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

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Okra with Rice

1 cup of rice 1 quart of okra ½ pound of ham I red pepper 1 pint of white stock I onion 1 tablespoonful of powderea dry sassafras leaves 1 pint of tomatoes Wash the okra, and cut in thin slices. Cut the ham into dice and fry it until brown. Peel and cut the tomatoes, put them into a porcelain lined or granite kettle with the okra, ham, stock, the pepper cut in small pieces, and onion cut in slices; cover the kettle, and simmer gently for a half hour. While this cooks, wash and boil the rice. When the okra is done, add the salt, pepper and sassafras leaves (called filée), let it boil up once, and serve with the rice around the dish.

For the Modern Kitchen

A gumbo in all but name, served with the rice ringed around the dish rather than under it. The measurements are straightforward once the fractions are read correctly.

A Little History

A Creole gumbo in effect, and seemingly written for readers unfamiliar with the term: the book calls the sassafras powder filée only in an aside, as though the word needed introducing. Filé is generally traced to the Choctaw of the Gulf Coast, who dried and pounded young sassafras leaves; it passed into New Orleans cooking as a thickener used alongside, or instead of, okra. Here both appear at once, which is often said to run against Louisiana practice. Okra and tomatoes are both high-summer crops, which makes this a seasonal dish.

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