Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

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Sour or Narrow Dock

This is a common weed in our rich ground and pastures. The leaves are long, narrow, and curly, and are supposed to possess an alterative quality, forming an excellent green for hot weather.

Wash the leaves, throw into a kettle of boiling salted water; boil rapidly for fifteen minutes. Drain, chop fine, and serve hot, with Egg Sauce.

For the Modern Kitchen

A wild-greens dish that survives in Appalachian and Southern cooking but has all but vanished from cookbooks. Most of the work is in gathering and in handling the plant's sourness.

A Little History

Curly dock is a Eurasian plant that came to North America with European settlement and spread through disturbed ground, pastures and field edges — which is exactly why the recipe opens by calling it "a common weed in our rich ground." It belongs to the old category of pot herbs gathered rather than grown, eaten alongside poke, lamb's quarters, dandelion and wild mustard in the spring "mess o' greens" tradition still alive in the American South. The recipe's own recommendation of it as "an excellent green for hot weather" reflects the period's dietary reasoning as much as its cooking: light green vegetables with a supposed cooling or "alterative" effect were thought fit for summer, when heavy meat dishes were held to be dangerous. The pairing with egg sauce follows the same logic that puts butter on spinach and cream on sorrel — fat and dairy to blunt a naturally acid green.

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