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Adhesives, Paints, and Varnishes: India

Or shave India rubber with a wet knife or shears to thin strings or shreds like yarn. Fill a glass fruit jar about one fourth full of these shreds and fill it up with high-grade benzine. Let stand, shaking occasionally, for four or five days or until completely dissolved. Thin with benzine, or add more rubber if necessary to make the mixture of the consistency of molasses. Or dissolve India rubber in highly rectified spirits of turpentine.

Or dissolve 7 grains of India rubber in 1 ounce of chloroform, and add 2 drams of shellac varnish.

The above are suitable for patching boots and shoes, for cementing rubber and leather, and either of them to wood. Clean the parts to be cemented by washing with a dilute solution of caustic potash or soda, and apply two or three coats to each surface. Let dry under pressure.

Or melt together equal parts of gutta percha and pitch. Apply hot.

Or melt together pound of gutta percha, 2 ounces of India rubber, 1 ounce of pitch, ounce of shellac, and 2 ounces of boiled linseed oil.

Or heat 5 pounds of Venice turpentine, stir in 8 ounces of shellac and 2 ounces of India rubber cut to shreds, and stir over gentle heat until dissolved. When dissolved, add 10 ounces of liquid storax. Do not allow the mixture to boil or burn.

Apply hot.

The above are suitable for cementing metals, leather, rubber, or cloth, especially flexible surfaces.

Or cut up 2 ounces of pure India rubber in 1 pound of bisulphate of carbon. Shake until dissolved. Add benzoin until the mixture is of the consistency of thick cream. Apply to both surfaces, warm the parts, and let dry under pressure.

This cement is used by shoemakers to put invisible patches on shoes, and is also suitable for mending harnesses, splicing leather straps, and the like.

To apply, shave the edges of the leather on a long bevel, lay over them a wet cloth, and press with a hot iron to take up any grease that may be present, but take care not to use an iron hot enough to burn or take the life out of the leather. Pour the cement on both surfaces quite thickly, and spread with a brush so as to fill the pores of the leather. Warm the parts over a flame for a few seconds until the cement becomes sticky, or "tacky," apply quickly, and hammer until firmly set. Keep the cement tightly corked in a cool place. To fasten leather to iron or steel, spread over the metal a thin, hot solution of good glue, and soak the leather in a warm solution of gallnuts before placing it on the metal. If fastened in this way the leather will tear before separating.

SPECIAL ADHESIVES Marine Glue. - Dissolve 1 ounce of finely divided India rubber in 24 pounds of crude naphtha. Let stand 2 or 3 weeks and shake frequently.

Add 5 pounds of shellac, melt with gentle heat, and stir until evenly dissolved. Pour on a marble or stone slab to cool and break in pieces like glue for use. When required, melt with gentle heat, apply a thin coating to the edges to be joined, and press firmly together. This cement is used in foundries, for calking ships, joining blocks of marble and granite, joining wood to iron, etc.

It is suitable for all heavy rough work exposed to the air.

Or dissolve in separate vessels by means of gentle heat 3 ounces of India rubber in rectified sulphuric ether free from alcohol. Mix the two solutions. When cool, bottle and cork tightly for use. This is suitable for fine work. Both of the above resist the action of hot and cold water, and of most acids and alkalies.

Wood, leather, and other materials cemented by them will part almost anywhere except at the place mended.

Thin this glue with ether and apply with a brush along the seams where leather is sewed, as the soles of shoes.

This renders the seam air-tight and practically unbreakable. The last two cements are probably the strongest known.

To prepare the above in large quantities dissolve 1 pound of India rubber in 5 gallons of cold naphtha, and add to this solution an equal weight of snellac. Melt with gentle heat and stir while melting until thoroughly dissolved. This is extremely tenacious and is insoluble. Lead and Oil Adhesives. -Linseed oil boiled to a varnish with litharge, and white lead ground in linseed oil, with or without various preparations of glue or other ingredients, make a class of adhesives which have valuable fireproof and waterproof qualities. Mix 4 ounces of linseed oil with 4 ounces of slaked lime, and boil until stringy. Pour into tin molds and let dry indoors or in the shade. This will dissolve when wanted like glue.

It will withstand fire and water.

Or boil 4 ounces of linseed oil with 4 ounces of litharge until the mixture is stringy, and add 8 ounces of melted glue of the consistency of molasses. Use this cement for leaders, the joints of wooden cisterns or casks, and similar places. It requires 3 or 4 days to harden, but renders wooden vessels air-tight and watertight.

Or mix equal quantities by weight of linseed oil and litharge. Stir in porcelain clay or well-dried pipe clay to the consistency of stiff mortar.

Thin, if desired, with oil or turpentine. Apply this substance to the outside of buildings.

ADHESIVES, PAINTS, AND VARNISHES Litharge Cements. - Mix 2 ounces of litharge, 1 ounce of unslaked lime, and 1 ounce of flint glass. Pulverize into fine powder, mix, and when required make into a stiff paste with boiled linseed oil.

Or pulverize brick or well-burnt clay to a fine powder. Mix 1 pound of litharge with 13 pounds of pulverized brick or clay, and add boiled linseed oil to make a stiff mortar.

Dampen the surface to which this is to be applied and use as mortar.

The above are suitable for cementing stone, wood, or iron, filling leaks, mending cracks, and other similar purposes.

Or mix powdered litharge with glycerin to the consistency of putty.

Used for fastening metal tops to glassware, mending holes in tinware, ironware, and the like.

Or mix 3 ounces of red lead, 3 ounces of white lead, 3 ounces of manganese, 3 ounces of silicate of soda, and 1 ounce of litharge. Use this cement for holes or cracks in steam or water pipes.

Or mix white lead ground in oil with powdered red lead to the consistency of putty.

Or mix equal weights of red lead and white lead with boiled linseed oil to the consistency of putty. Apply the cement to a washer of cloth or canvas and tighten up the joint.

It dries like stone. This and the last are employed by engineers to make metallic joints.

Or use white lead mixed with oil to mend broken china and glassware, and to fill cracks in roofs, cisterns, and the like. - Plaster-of-Paris Cements. There is a class of cements of which plaster of Paris or gypsum is the basis, in which the hardening is due to the union of the plaster with water, but they require the addition of various other ingredients to give them adhesive properties. For the use of gum arabic with plaster of Paris, see above under "Gum Arabic."

Or mix into a paste plaster of Paris and white of egg. Used for mending broken glass or china.

Or substitute oyster shells burnt in a stove or open fire and pulverized to powder.

Or melt 2 ounces of rosin and stir in 1 ounce of plaster of Paris.

Or melt 1 ounce each of rosin and beeswax, and stir in 1 ounce of plaster of Paris.

Or melt 8 ounces of rosin and 1 ounce of beeswax, and stir in 4 ounces of plaster of Paris. Apply these cements to alabaster, broken plaster casts, marble, porphyry, and similar materials.

Or mix equal quantities of pulverized alum and plaster of Paris, and add sufficient water to make a thin paste.

Or mix plaster of Paris with a saturated solution of alum, and bake in an iron vessel in an oven until dry.

Pulverize this mixture to a fine powder, and when wanted mix to the consistency of paste with a solution of 1 ounce of alum in 12 ounces of water.

This cement is suitable for attaching glass to metal.

Or boil 3 ounces of rosin, 1 ounce of caustic soda, and 5 ounces of water.

Stir in 4 ounces of plaster of Paris.

This cement is especially recommended for fitting the brass work to kerosene-oil lamps, as it is not affected by petroleum products. It is a poor conductor of heat.

Or melt alum and use for the same purpose while melted. Kerosene does not penetrate this.

Or mix 1 pint each (dry measure) of litharge, plaster of Paris, and fine, dry white sand, and pint of finely powdered rosin. Make into a stiff paste with boiled linseed oil and ap ply within 12 hours after mixing.

This cement hardens under water and may be used for tanks, aquaria, water tanks for animals, and all similar purposes, as it contains nothing which is injurious to animals. Allow this cement to set 3 or 4 hours before wetting it.

Ironware Cements. -Mix 5 parts of powdered fire clay and 1 part of fine iron filings with enough boiled linseed oil to make a paste. This is not suitable for iron exposed to red heat, as a stove.

Or mix equal quantities of sifted wood ashes, powdered fire clay, and common salt. Moisten to a paste with water and fill cracks in stoves and other ironware.

Or use equal quantities of sifted wood ashes and common salt mixed to a paste with water, but without the clay. Let the mixture set before heating.

Or melt 2 ounces of sulphur in an iron pan, and stir in 1 ounce of fine black lead. Pour on a stone or an iron plate to cool. When cold, break in small pieces. An iron pot can be mended by soldering with this substance, using a hot soldering iron. Or, to mend a small hole, insert a copper rivet or one of the brass brads used to fasten documents together, hammer smoothly on both sides, and cover with this cement.

Or melt 5 ounces of brimstone, and stir in 2 ounces of black lead and 2 ounces of cast-iron filings. Apply to leaks in cast-iron tanks, cisterns, etc., by drying the leak, heating it by means of red-hot iron, and pouring the melted cement from a ladle over the leak.

Or mix 4 ounces of barytes and 4 ounces of fine fire clay to a paste with soluble glass or a saturated solution of borax.

Or mix equal quantities of clay and powdered glass with soluble glass or a saturated solution of borax, and apply with a brush to cracks in iron stoves or furnaces.

Or mix2 pounds of cast-iron filings with 1 ounce of sal ammoniac and ounce of flowers of sulphur.

Stir in enough water to form a paste.

Mix this preparation in an iron vessel, as it becomes very hot from chemical action. Prepare when wanted and apply immediately, as it soon sets very hard.

Or mix 8 ounces of steel filings, 1½ ounces of sal ammoniac, and 1 ounce of flowers of sulphur. Preserve this mixture in dry form until wanted. When required, add 1 ounce of it to 15 ounces of iron filings, and mix with water acidulated with sulphuric acid to form a paste. Apply this cement to the joints of iron pipe and for similar purposes. Clean surfaces to be cemented with nitric or strong sulphuric acid. Use this cement for all iron and steel work.

Or mix 10 ounces of powdered fire clay, 4 ounces of fresh iron filings free from rust, 2 ounces of peroxide of manganese, 1 ounce of sea salt, and 1 ounce of borax. Powder finely, mix to a paste with water, and apply immediately. Gradually bring the parts to a white heat. This cement is both fireproof and waterproof.

Or mix equal quantities of sifted peroxide of manganese and powdered zinc white, and make into a thin paste with soluble glass. Apply immediately.

Or mix 5 ounces of fire clay, 3 ounces of manganese, and 3 ounces of silicate of soda with water to the consistency of putty. Used to mend holes in castings and for similar purposes.

Or mix 10 ounces of clay, 3 ounces of manganese, 2 ounces of silicate of soda, and ounce of asbestos. Grind to powder in a mortar, mix with water to make a paste, and use as mortar for lining stoves.

Compound Glues. - The number of pastes, glues, and cements that can be compounded by mixing various proportions of the above substances is, of course, numberless, but the following preparations are especially recommended as having given satisfaction: a For liquid glue, dissolve in double boiler 8 ounces of white glue and 2 ounces of dry white lead in 1 pint of soft water. When dissolved, add 2 ounces of alcohol and stir briskly. Remove from the fire and bottle while hot.

SPECIAL PURPOSE CEMENTS Wood Cement. - Mix 1 ounce of lime and 2 ounces of rye meal ADHESIVES, PAINTS, AND VARNISHES with boiled linseed oil to a stiff paste.

Or dissolve 1 ounce of glue in 16 ounces of water, and stir in sawdust or prepared chalk or both to make a paste. apply the cement while hot. It will make a stronger joint if the surface is first moistened with a solution of gallnuts. A joint made of this cement will be as strong as any other part of the leather.

Or thicken oil varnish with equal Or, to fasten leather and other parts of white lead, red lead, lith-fibrous material to metals, dissolve arge, and powdered chalk. Use these cements to fill cracks and defects in woodwork before painting.

Or mix 2 ounces of beeswax, 2 ounces of shellac, and 1 ounce of Indian red, and color with yellow ocher to the shade required. Use this cement to fill cracks, cover nail heads, and the like in mahogany furniture. one Cement for Glass. - Dissolve best white glue in as little water as possible, and add by bulk one half as much linseed oil varnish and fourth as much pure turpentine. Boil together in a double boiler closely covered to keep in the steam. Apply to glass and metal joints, holding the two surfaces together with a vise if convenient or under weights for forty-eight hours until the cement sets. a Or, for the same purpose, melt together 5 ounces of rosin, 1 ounce of beeswax, 1 ounce of red ocher, and tablespoonful of gypsum.

Leather Cement. - Dissolve in double boiler 1 ounce of pure isinglass in pint of ale. Add 2 ounces of common glue and dissolve with gentle heat. Stir in 1 ounce of boiled linseed oil until well mixed. This mixture will have the texture of India rubber. Bottle and cork tightly for future use. Dilute when required with fresh ale, and after shaving the surfaces of the leather apply hot with a brush to harness and other belts, bands, etc. Let stand in a vise or under pressure until it sets. This is waterproof and a very powerful adhesive.

Or dissolve in a double boiler equal quantities of glue and isinglass in pure tannin until the mixture assumes the appearance of white of egg. Shave the leather, rub the edges with sandpaper to roughen them, and glue in hot vinegar and add one third by volume of hot white pine pitch.

Collodion Cement. -Collodion is a mixture of 1 ounce of gun cotton and 1 ounce of alcohol in about 1 pound of ether. When used as a cement or varnish to prevent rust or for other purposes, it easily cracks and peels. To prevent this, add to each 18 ounces of collodion 4 ounces of Venice turpentine and 2 ounces of castor oil.

Or, when using collodion for surgical purposes to dress cuts, etc., add to the ordinary collodion one eighth its volume of glycerin. This makes a varnish which adheres to the skin, but is elastic, and hence does not crack or crease. - Thicken Coppersmith's Cement. fresh beef blood with powdered Mix only as required quicklime. and apply at once, as it sets rapidly.