Beverages
WHEN we speak of beverages, it includes such daily drinks as tea, coffee, and cocoa, also the delicious fruit punches, which are easy to make and, in hot weather, as cooling to the blood as they are palatable.
In preparing all hot beverages, freshly boiled water is a necessity, for after water has boiled five minutes it 000 loses a sort of sparkle that makes all the difference between a poor cup of tea and one that is stimulating and fragrant. As to coffee, there are various methods of making it, but in boiled coffee, which is the common, everyday way of making it, we have probably the quickest and most economical method. To have coffee at its best, the water and coffee should be carefully measured, carefully watched and timed in the cooking, and the coffeepot kept scrupulously clean. Don't buy poor, cheap tea and coffee; it is simply impossible to make them fit to drink; better a small quantity of decent quality.
The majority of fruit punches, as a rule, have one base-a sirup of equal quantities of water and sugar. This is a much better way to prepare such drinks than by melting sugar, which can only be half dissolved in cold water. After the sirup for such a beverage is prepared, its flavoring is limited only by the variety of fruit on hand. The ever-handy lemon gives it necessary tartness, and to add to the deliciousness anything may be added, even a left-over of sirup from canned fruit or a cup of cold tea.
French Coffee. 1 cupful finely ground coffee, 6 cupfuls boiling water.
There are a number of pots on the market for making French coffee; any of them are suitable, provided they contain a fine strainer, which holds the coffee and prevents the grounds from getting into the infusion. To make coffee in this fashion, put the coffee into the strainer, which is generally set into the mouth of the pot; place the pot on the stove and slowly pour the water over the grounds, allowing it to filter through.
If you wish to have the coffee stronger, pour out the infusion and pour it second time over the grounds, but do not allow it to cool. a Boiled Coffee. 4 heaping tablespoonfuls ground coffee, 1 quart freshly boiling water, white of egg.
MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK Mix the white of egg with 3 tablespoonfuls cold water, beating with a fork; add the coffee and stir till wet.
Scald coffeepot, put in prepared coffee, pour in boiling water, cover the spout, and boil five minutes. Pour in quickly 1/4 cupful cold water; stand three minutes to settle. Strain into a hot pot or have strainer on table.
Tea.
Water for tea should be used when it has just reached the boiling point.
Teas are of differing strengths, but a safe rule is 1 teaspoonful dry tea to pint boiling water. Scald the pot, put in dry tea, and cover one minute. Add boiling water and cover closely. Let stand three to six minutes and strain off into another hot pot. A wadded cozy keeps the tea hot for a long time.
Cocoa.
In a tablespoonful of boiling water dissolve a small teaspoonful of Runkel's cocoa powder, then add a cupful of boiling milk, and boil together for five minutes, stirring continually. When served, sweeten to taste. This is for one cup; for larger quantities, follow the same proportions. Use only earthen or porcelain vessels, as tin spoils the flavor of cocoa.
Afternoon Chocolate. 1 quart milk, 3 squares Runkel's chocolate, 3 tablespoonfuls boiling water, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar.
Put the chocolate in a double boiler. When it melts, add the sugar and stir thoroughly till both are dissolved. Add the boiling water and beat it smooth, then pour over it the scalded milk. With an egg beater, whip the beverage till it foams, keeping it over the fire. Serve from a chocolate pot, sweetening to taste and putting into each cupful a tablespoonful of whipped cream. you desire the chocolate delicately thickened, add tablespoonful corn- If starch dissolved in cold milk during the cooking process.
A short chapter of five working recipes plus the author's opinions on water, quality and sugar syrup. Most of it transfers directly; a few instructions reflect equipment and products that no longer exist.
- The boiled-water ruleThe claim that water loses its "sparkle" after five minutes of boiling is about dissolved air and gas, and it holds up in practice for tea more than for coffee. Bring water to a boil and use it; reboiled water that has been sitting on the stove makes flat tea.
- Runkel's cocoa and chocolateRunkel Brothers was a New York chocolate firm and the brand is gone. Baking-chocolate squares of the period were generally one ounce, so 3 oz unsweetened baking chocolate is a reasonable reading for the afternoon chocolate, and unsweetened cocoa powder for the cocoa.
- Boiled coffee timingFive minutes at a boil is what makes old-fashioned boiled coffee taste the way it does — heavy and slightly scorched. If you want the method without the bitterness, hold it just below a simmer and give it four minutes; the egg-white raft will still clarify it.
- What the egg white doesEgg protein coagulates around the fine grounds and drags them down, which is why the pot clears after the splash of cold water. It cooks thoroughly during the boil. Half an egg white is plenty for a quart, and the shell may be crushed in with it.
- "French coffee"This is drip or pour-over, not a French press: the strainer sits in the mouth of the pot and the water filters through. Setting the pot on the stove is only to keep the brew hot. Pouring the finished coffee back through a second time, as suggested, gives you bitterness rather than strength — grind finer or use more coffee instead.
- Proportions in modern termsFrench coffee: 1 cup ground coffee to 6 cups water is strong by any standard, roughly 80 g to 1.4 L. Boiled coffee at 4 heaping tablespoons to a quart is closer to ordinary drinking strength. Tea at 1 teaspoon per pint (about 2 g per 475 ml) is on the weak side for modern black tea; 1 teaspoon per cup is more usual now.
- Cocoa, five minutesBoiling milk for five minutes while stirring was meant to cook the starch in the cocoa and prevent a raw, chalky taste. Two minutes at a bare simmer does the same job with far less risk of a skin or a scorched pan bottom.
- Tin spoils the flavorThe warning against tin presumably reflects a belief that bare tinned or unlined metal reacted with the cocoa. Whatever lay behind it, stainless steel, enamel and glass are all fine; the instruction can be ignored.
- YieldThe cocoa recipe makes one cup as written. Afternoon chocolate from a quart of milk fills six to eight small chocolate cups, which were smaller than a modern mug.
This chapter belongs to the moment when American households were being told, firmly and repeatedly, that coffee and tea deserved measurement. Boiled coffee — grounds, water and often egg white together in a pot on the range — was the default in the nineteenth-century United States, and the egg-white clarification survives in the "cowboy coffee" and Scandinavian "egg coffee" still made in the Upper Midwest. The "French" method here is the older drip apparatus generally traced to the early 1800s and associated with the biggin pot, which reached America decades before the plunger press. The named brand is the tell of the period: Runkel Brothers of New York was a large chocolate manufacturer whose cocoa was common enough that a cookbook could specify it without explanation. The insistence that fruit punch begin with a cooked sugar syrup rather than sugar stirred into cold water is sound and still standard behind any bar.