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Candies and Candy Making: Clarify
BOILING SIRUP FOR CANDY To Clarify Sugar. To make good candy it is first advisable to clarify the sugar by boiling it to a thin sirup with half its own bulk or more of water and the addition of the white of egg, gum arabic, or gelatin. This precaution will cause the impurities to rise in a scum, which may be removed with a skimmer. The resulting clarified sirup is the basis of all high-grade candies.
Similarly to clarify brown or yellow sugar, add white of egg or a solution of gelatin, isinglass, or gum arabic with water, and boil until the impurities rise to the surface. Dissolve 4 cupfuls of sugar in 1 of warm water and add the white of 1 egg beaten up with 1 cupful of cold water. Boil with gentle heat, removing the scum as fast as it appears. Or dissolve 4 cupfuls of sugar in 1 cupful of warm water; simmer with gentle heat, and add ounce of gum arabic dissolved in a little boiling water. Remove the scum with a skimmer as fast as it appears.
For white sugars, less of the white of egg is required, but the same quantity of water should be used.
To clarify loaf sugar, 1 white of egg to every 6 pounds of sugar is all that will be required. But add, when boiling loaf sugar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice or vinegar to prevent it from graining. As the sirup boils, add a little cold water to prevent it boiling over, and skim as the froth subsides. Do this three or four times, and strain the whole through cheese cloth. Add flavoring matter, if desired, after the purified sugar has been removed from the fire.
To Clarify Molasses. -To make a fine grade of molasses candy or to purify molasses so that it may be used in place of sugar for candies, cooking, and other purposes, take equal parts of molasses and water, and part of coarse broken charcoal; as, 24 pounds of molasses, 24 pounds of water, and 6 pounds of charcoal. Mix and boil for half an hour over a slow fire. Pour into a large flat pan or vat and let stand until the charcoal settles to the bottom. Strain off the clear molasses through a piece of cheese cloth and simmer with gentle heat until the water is all evaporated and the molasses has returned to its proper consistency. Molasses will lose nothing in bulk by this process, as 24 pounds of molasses will give 24 pounds of clarified sirup, from which the finer grades of molasses candy can be made. -- To Clarify Maple Sugar. To weigh, melt, and clarify maple sugar, break up the cakes and add enough water according to the condition of the sugar-whether hard or soft grain-to dissolve. Place over a slow fire and stir while melting. If the sugar was of a soft grain, add 15 pounds of granulated sugar. Or, if a hard grain, add 15 pounds of best light coffee sugar. Boil to a medium ball. Test by pouring a little in a porcelain-lined saucepan until the grain is cloudy. Leave a little of the grained sirup in the saucepan from the last stirring to make the next grain quicker. Pour in buttered molds, or set the kettle into a tub of ice water to cool and harden. But observe that maple sugar thus mixed with cane sugar must not be offered for sale without a statement of the fact that it has been thus treated.
To Boil or to Candy Sugar.-The art of candy making is very ancient, and the process of boiling sugar for candy has been observed and studied for many generations. Thus it has been observed that the clarified sirup, as it gradually loses moisture by evaporation in the course of boiling down, assumes certain stages in which it is best adapted for use in making different kinds of candies. For convenience in preparing recipes these stages have been named and carefully defined, so that with a little attention they may be noted by anyone. When once observed they will always be recognized at a glance, and the process of candy making will become almost as easy for the amateur as it is for the professional confectioner.
Seven different states or degrees are noted, three of which fall into two different stages. These are called respectively (1) the lisse or the thread, which may be large or small; (2) the perle or pearl, either large or small; (3) the souffle or the blow; (4) the plume or feather; (5) the boulet or ball, large or small; (6) the cassé or the crack or snap; and (7) the caramel or hard baked.
To Test Sirup. -The method practiced by professional confectioners to test the state or "degree" of boiling sirup is to dip the tip of the forefinger and thumb of the right hand into iced water, then into the boiling sirup, and quickly back into the iced water again. The operation is much like that of testing a hot flatiron with a wet finger. If the test is CANDIES AND CANDY MAKING made quickly enough, the ice water will prevent the hot sirup from burning the fingers. There is, of course, a knack in doing this, but with a little practice it can be readily acquired, The thumb and forefinger are brought together in the iced water, to prevent the sirup from running off, and quickly withdrawn, holding a pinch of sirup between the forefinger and the thumb. By spreading them, the state or degree of the boiling sirup can be ascertained.
Another method of testing, which may perhaps be preferred by the beginner in candy making, is to take out a little of the sirup with a spoon, lower it in a cup of cold water, and let a drop fall from the edge on the tip of the forefinger.
Or, to dip the forefinger and thumb in iced water, take out a little of the hot sirup on a small stick or skewer, and test a drop between the thumb and finger.
Candies that are to be pulled may be tested by pouring a spoonful of sirup into cold water and observing if it is brittle enough to break without bending, like a pipestem, otherwise the boiling must be continued. THE SEVEN DEGREES To make the experiment of noting the seven degrees in sugar boiling, crush 1 pound of fine loaf sugar, add 3 gills of water and put it on or boil in a clean saucepan over a sharp fire. Have at hand a bowl full of iced water, a suitable skimmer and if desired a small stick or skewer. Remove the scum as fast as it rises to the surface, and after about 2 minutes by the watch make the first test as above suggested either by dipping the thumb and forefinger, first into the iced water, then into the boiling sugar, and back into the iced water again, or by means of a spoon or skewer. Take great care that the sirup does not boil over, and stir frequently so that it may not burn.
The Lisse or Thread. If on separating the thumb and forefinger with a pinch of sirup between them, a thin, short thread is formed which quickly snaps, the sugar is in the state known as the "small thread."
In a few seconds more, when the thread can be drawn out to double its former length without snapping, its state is known as the "large thread."
The Perle or Pearl. - After another minute or two longer, the sugar in boiling will form small round bubbles or globules that look like large pearls. This state is known as the "small pearl." Soon the pearls will cover the entire surface of the sirup, and this state is known as the "large pearl." In the pearl state a pinch of sirup may be drawn out to the full extension of the finger and thumb without breaking. This is the proper degree for most kinds of candy making.
This is the foundation chapter for everything else in the candy section: clarifying the sugar, then reading its temperature by hand. Modern sugar has made the first half obsolete and the candy thermometer has made the second half unnecessary.
- Skip the clarifyingGranulated sugar today is essentially pure sucrose, and there is nothing for egg white or gum arabic to carry to the surface. Dissolve sugar in water and go straight to boiling; the scum this recipe promises will not appear.
- Do not use the finger testSugar syrup at the ball stage is around 240F and molten sugar clings to skin rather than running off, which is exactly what makes it a worse burn than boiling water. Use a candy thermometer or the cold-water drop test in a bowl, and keep hands out of the pan.
- The seven degrees in numbersRough thermometer equivalents: thread about 230F, pearl about 240F, ball from about 235F (soft) up to 265F (hard), crack about 290-310F, caramel 320-350F. The blow and feather stages fall between pearl and ball, and old sources place them anywhere from the low 230s upward. Sources disagree by several degrees, so treat these as a guide and trust the water test alongside the thermometer.
- Gills and other unitsA gill is half a cup, so the 3 gills for the seven-degrees experiment is 1 1/2 cups of water to 1 lb of sugar (about 2 1/4 cups). "A sharp fire" means high heat; "slow fire" is a low simmer.
- Loaf and coffee sugarLoaf sugar was refined sugar sold as a hard cone or block and broken up for use; granulated sugar replaces it directly. "Best light coffee sugar" was a commercial grade sold under that name in the period; its exact character varied, and granulated sugar is the practical substitute.
- Isinglass and gum arabicIsinglass is a gelatin made from fish swim bladders, sold mainly for brewing now, though culinary grades can still be found. Gum arabic is available as a powder for confectionery work. Neither is needed here.
- The molasses charcoal stepThe charcoal in this method was lump wood charcoal used as a decolorising filter. Barbecue briquettes are bound and sometimes pre-treated with accelerants and are not food material, so do not substitute them. Buy a lighter molasses instead if colour and flavour are the problem.
- Maple sugar quantitiesThe maple instructions are written for a confectioner's kettle, with 15 lb of cane sugar added to an unspecified weight of maple. There is no way to scale this honestly to a household batch, and the note about disclosing the cane sugar is a labelling rule for sellers, not a cooking step.
- Acid against grainingThe tablespoon of lemon juice or vinegar is the one instruction here still worth keeping. A little acid inverts some of the sucrose and keeps the finished syrup from crystallising; cream of tartar or corn syrup does the same job more predictably.
By the time Household Discoveries appeared, the French confectioners' ladder of degrees -- lisse, perl souffl plume, boulet, cass caramel -- had been standard professional vocabulary for a century or more, and had been carried into English-language manuals. What is striking is that the book still teaches clarification at all. Cane sugar refining had improved enormously through the nineteenth century, and by 1900 granulated sugar was cheap and clean; but domestic writers went on repeating the egg-white-and-skimmer routine inherited from an era when household sugar genuinely carried molasses residue and plant debris. The chapter sits at a hinge: the hand test with iced fingers belongs to the workshop tradition of the trained confectioner, while the thermometer that would eventually make all of it obsolete lay ahead.