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Candies and Candy Making: Fondant
Sprinkle the flavoring over the surface in the process of creaming and it will be thoroughly worked into the mass by kneading. - To Roll Fondant. - Cut off as many pounds of fondant, at least 24 hours old, as you need to make candy. Measure½ teaspoonful of flavoring extract or less to each pound of candy and add to the flavoring extract 1 drop of the appropriate coloring matter. Roll the fondant out thin on the slab, sprinkle the coloring matter over it and thoroughly incorporate it by kneading, the same as when working over bread. Have ready prepared sheets of waxed paper. And have at hand nuts, fruit, or decorations for the candies you are about to make. Cut the fondant into small pieces and roll into the desired shape with the fingers or palms. If fruit or nuts are to be used, add them at once while the cream is moist. Or if the centers are to be dipped, set them in order on waxed paper and let stand twentyfour hours more to harden. To Dip Fondant. - If the chocolate for dipping fondants becomes too thick, add to it a little cocoanut oil.
This is the natural oil of chocolate, and is, hence, the most appropriate substance with which to thin it. Do not attempt to thin it with hot water, as it will immediately cause the chocolate to grain.
Or use fresh, unsalted butter or olive oil. To dip the centers, use a slender two-tined fork, turn the conical point of the chocolate to the right, downward, dip under in a half circle, remove it point first and hold it upright over the chocolate for a moment or two to drip. Then set it down gently on the waxed paper.
Add nuts, fruit, or decorations, if any, while the chocolate is still damp.
Dip bonbons in the same manner.
To Cream Fondant. - When the sirup is done set it away from the fire and let it stand until about lukewarm. Now commence to stir with a wooden paddle. Commence to stir round and round, always in the same direction; keep the sirup away from the sides of the kettle so that it will not grain or form in lumps. Presently the edges will commence to show white and dry. The mass must now be laid on a marble slab or a kneading board, which may be dusted with fine flour, cornstarch, or Confectioners' XXX sugar, and kneaded with the hands in the same manner as bread dough until it is of a uniform soft and creamy consistency. Place the mass of fondant if not required for use in an earthenware bowl and cover it with several folds of a cloth wrung out so as to be moist but not wet. It may thus be kept for a number of days, and will only require to be warmed at the fire or by CANDIES AND CANDY MAKING setting the bowl in a vessel of boiling water or on a hot soapstone, or on two or three common bricks previously heated in the oven, to be ready for immediate use. Any remnant of the fondant which becomes hard and dry, or a batch of fondant which has been cooked too much, may be softened with hot water and reboiled to the proper degree.
Confectioners' Fondant. -The following recipe is that of a professional confectioner, and the full quantities are given for the benefit of dealers in candy, grocers, or persons desiring to make candy in large quantities for sale at a fair, church bazaar, or otherwise. The quantity of candy here described will require a large kneading board or vat with low sides; but any smooth surface, as a clean kitchen table, will answer. As the mass will be too large to be worked with the hands it is better to take a small garden hoe with a short handle, which should, of course, be scoured clean for the purpose.
Boil down 20 pounds of fine granulated sugar with 2½ quarts of water to the stiff ball. Remove from the fire and sprinkle on top 6 pounds of glucose, but do not stir it in. Set back on the fire and let it boil until the scum boils in.
Note that the glucose must not be added until the sugar is boiled to the hard ball, and must not be stirred, but allowed to boil in of itself. Dust the vat or molding board with Confectioners' XXX sugar, pour out the mass on this as soon as the scum has boiled in, and let it cool until you can lay your hand on it. But it is better to begin a little sooner than to let it get too cold. Take two short garden hoes or cream scrapers, work it flat and sprinkle over it rather less than pint of glycerin. Cream thoroughly with the hoes or scrapers, and let stand over night before using.
When this fondant is first made it will be rather rough and coarse in texture, but standing twelve hours or more will give it a uniform fine texture and it improves with age, never graining or turning stale. If this recipe is carefully followed, a fine quality of cream for chocolate drops, cream candies, and other fondants can be made at a very satisfactory profit.
Fondant without Glucose. - Boil rapidly over a quick fire to the softball degree 6 cupfuls of fine granulated sugar, 2 cupfuls of water, and + teaspoonful of cream of tartar.
Or 3 pounds of granulated sugar, 1 pint of water, and teaspoonful of cream of tartar. The addition of cream of tartar prevents the sirup from graining. Remove from the fire as soon as done, let the mass cool until lukewarm, and proceed as before.
Chocolate Fondant. - Instead of pure melted chocolate, a fondant containing 2 tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate to each pound of cream may be used. Place in a bowl, set in a vessel of hot water, 2 tablespoonfuls of chocolate and when melted add a cupful of clarified sirup and 1 pound of melted fondant. Stir and mix well. In this chocolate fondant dip the hearts or centers of creams or bonbons by transfixing them with a fork or hatpin and dropping them on waxed or buttered paper or sheets of tin to harden. Fruits, as cherries, figs, and the like, are very delicious coated in this way, or mixed nuts dipped and rolled with French cream and thus coated are also excellent. an Bonbon Fondant. - Prepare any ordinary fondant, but cream it with a wooden paddle, and do not knead it as for ordinary fondant. Let it stand twenty-four hours or more in earthenware bowl covered with several thicknesses of wet cloth. To dip bonbons heat the fondant by setting it on a soapstone or in a pan of hot water over the stove and stirring constantly, but do not allow it to boil.
A double boiler may be used for this purpose. Dip the centers by transfixing them with a fork or hatpin, and set them to cool on sheets of waxed paper. This recipe is suitable for all sorts of nuts, fruits, and other sweetmeat centers. The fondant may be tinted or colored as desired.
Uncooked Fondant. - Beat up the white of egg and mix with the same amount of water by bulk in an earthenware bowl. Whip in Confectioners' XXX sugar to a stiff paste, which will stand when molded with the fingers to any desired shape. Flavor and tint as desired. After molding let the pieces stand several hours to harden, but make up no more fondant than is required for immediate use, as it soon hardens. This fondant may be used as centers for chocolate creams, or for nut or fruit sweetmeats in place of any of the cooked fondants as desired.
A working confectioner's chapter on fondant, from a period when the only thermometer in many kitchens was a bowl of cold water. The sugar stages are the whole game; everything else is handling.
- Sugar stages in degreesSoft ball is 235-240F, firm ball 244-248F, hard ball 250-265F. The cold-water test still works, but a candy thermometer removes the guesswork, and fondant boiled even ten degrees past target will set hard and grainy rather than creamy.
- The hinge: let it cool before you stirThe instruction to set the syrup aside until lukewarm is the one step that cannot be rushed. Agitating hot syrup throws large crystals and gives sandy fondant; cooling undisturbed to about 110F and only then paddling gives the fine crystal that makes fondant creamy. Keep the syrup off the sides of the pan for the same reason.
- Glucose and cream of tartarGlucose here is confectioner's glucose, near enough to modern corn syrup for the purpose; both are interfering agents that block large crystals. Cream of tartar does the same job by inverting a little of the sugar during boiling, which is why the no-glucose version needs it.
- Confectioners' XXX sugarAn older grade of powdered sugar, coarser than today's 10X. Modern confectioners' sugar substitutes directly, though it contains cornstarch, which is harmless in a dusting but noticeable if you whip a great deal of it into a paste.
- Cocoanut oil for thinning chocolateCoconut oil is not, despite the text, the natural fat of chocolate; that is cocoa butter, which is the better thinner and will not soften the set. The warning against water is entirely sound: a few drops seize melted chocolate instantly.
- Dipping temperatureReal couverture must be tempered, held around 88-90F for dark chocolate, or the dipped centers will bloom grey and set soft. Confectionery coating avoids the issue at some cost in flavour. Centers should be dry and at room temperature, never chilled, or they will sweat under the shell.
- The commercial batchTwenty pounds of sugar with 6 pounds of glucose gives something in the region of 26 to 29 pounds of finished fondant, depending on how much water is left in it. Scaling down by a factor of ten is straightforward; the garden hoe is then unnecessary and a bench scraper does the creaming.
- The uncooked fondantThat variant is built on raw egg white with no heat step at any point, and the centers are then eaten as they are. It should not be made as written; if you want an uncooked fondant, follow a current recipe using pasteurized whites.
- StorageThe damp-cloth-and-crock method works; a sealed container is the simpler modern equivalent, though refrigeration risks condensation on the surface. Fondant genuinely does improve over a day or two as the crystal structure evens out, exactly as the text claims.
Fondant, from the French fondre, to melt, is the base material of nearly all soft-centered confectionery, and the technique described here, boiling sugar with an interfering agent, cooling it undisturbed, then working it to force fine crystallisation, is essentially the one still used in commercial candy plants. Its spread through American home kitchens tracks the collapse in the price of refined sugar through the second half of the nineteenth century and the arrival of cheap commercial glucose from corn, which made large batches practical for people who were not trained confectioners. The tone of this entry is telling: it slides without ceremony from the household cook rolling out a pound of centers to the dealer boiling twenty pounds in a vat and working it with a scoured garden hoe, and it frankly promises "a very satisfactory profit." Church bazaars and fairs were a common outlet for home-made candy in this period, and books of this kind routinely blurred the line between domestic economy and small-scale trade.