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Candies and Candy Making: Remove
CANDIED FRUITS, FRUIT AND NUT CANDIES To Candy Fruits. - Use for this purpose fine white loaf sugar in any quantity desired. Dip each lump into clear soft water and drop ine moistened lumps into a porcelain or other saucepan. Boil to the caramel state, removing the scum as fast as it appears. Remove the saucepan from the fire and place it in a vessel of hot water. As soon as the sirup ceases to boil, dip the fruit to be candied, one by one, into the hot sirup, and place it to dry and harden in a cool place. Almost any kind of ripe fruit may be candied in this manner, as ripe grapes, plums, cherries, sections of orange, lemon, or pineapple, etc.
Or make a sirup of 3½ pounds of granulated sugar and 1 pint of soft water or distilled water by boiling 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the fire, immerse the fruit, and let stand 2 or 3 hours. Strain off the sirup, which may be used for other can- CANDIES AND CANDY MAKING dies, and let the fruit stand in front of a baking oven with the door open until the moisture is dried out, when the sugar will crystallize.
Candied Peel.-To candy Orange or lemon peel, first soak peel in salt and water 4 or 5 days, changing the water frequently as it becomes bitter. When the bitterness has been removed, rinse them in clear warm water and boil in soft water until they are tender. Make a sirup at the rate of 3 pounds of loaf sugar to a pint of water, stir in the peels and boil to the caramel stage. Put them to drain in a sieve, powder them with Confectioners' XXX sugar, and let them dry on the edge of a cool oven with the door open.
Store in a cool place to harden.
Candied Orange Marmalade.-Remove the juice and pulp of sweet Florida or navel oranges, taking care to pick out the seeds and inside skin.
For bitter marmalade, boil the rinds at once until they become tender.
Or, if the bitterness is not desired, use peels that have been soaked four or five days in advance in salt water, but the pulp must be freshly extracted.
Finally, in either case boil the peel until it is tender. Chop or crush it fine, stir in the pulp and juice, add double the weight of moist loaf sugar and boil over a slow fire to the caramel stage, which will take about half an hour. Preserve in small jars covered with waxed paper. Fruit Sweetmeats. - Make a clarified sirup of pound of coffee or brown sugar by stirring in the white of an egg and skimming it out as the sirup boils. Stir in 1 pound of sliced fruit, as peaches, pears, or sweet apples, etc., and boil to the thickness of jelly. Or, if desired, place the whole peaches in cold water without peeling them, and bring them to a boil. Remove and dry them on a towel, and immerse them in boiling sirup.
Or dip small fruit, as cherries, raspberries, plums, etc., in white of egg, place them in a sieve, dust with XXX powdered sugar, and shake until well coated.
Orange Straws.-Boil orange peel in soft water in a large saucepan until it is tender, using plenty of water, and changing it frequently as it grows bitter. Place in a sieve to drain, and when cold enough to handle cut into narrow strips with a sharp, thin knife blade. Boil in sirup to the caramel stage and dry in a warm place. - Fig Candy.-Boil to the hard ball over a slow fire 1 pound of granulated sugar in 1 pint of water. Stir in½ teaspoonful of vinegar, a lump of butter the size of an English walnut, and pour over split figs previously prepared in a buttered pan. Date Candy.
Remove the pits from any desired quantity of dates, and lay them in rows side by side in the bottom of a buttered pan about inch apart. Pour over these a sirup prepared as for fig candy.
Let stand until cold. When nearly cold mark between the rows of dates with a sharp knife blade. When the candy is set cut along these lines and wrap the bars in waxed or buttered paper.
Raisin Candy.-Prepare the sirup as for fig and date candy, cover the bottom of a buttered pan with a layer of seeded raisins, pour on this a thin layer of sirup, add more raisins, and so continue until the candy is of any desired thickness. Mark in squares when nearly cold.
Fig Bars. Boil to the soft thread 4 cupfuls of granulated sugar and 1 cupful of water to which teaspoonful of cream of tartar has been added. Now stir in a pound of finely chopped figs, boil to the hard thread, take off the fire and sift in a half cupful of powdered sugar.
Work the whole with a wooden spoon or paddle to a thick, smooth mass, using additional sugar, if necessary.
Pour out on a smooth surface, lay over it a sheet of waxed paper and press down smooth with the bottom of a tin pan or any smooth, hard surface. Melt with gentle heat 1 pound of fondant in an earthenware bowl, set on a hot soapstone or in a pan of boiling water. Flavor to taste. Remove the waxed paper from the fig paste, pour over it a layer of the fondant, let the whole harden, reverse if desired, and pour a layer of fondant on the other side, and when hard cut it into bars and wrap in waxed tissue paper.
Ginger Candy.-Boil over a quick fire 1 pound of granulated sugar with pint of spring water. When dissolved mix a spoonful of finely powdered Chinese ginger with 2 or 3 ounces of the sirup and stir it into the whole. Boil to the blow and at this stage stir in the rind of a large lemon, grated, and continue to stir until a spoonful dropped on a cold plate remains stiff without falling.
Remove at once and drop from a pan having a lip or spout, on buttered tins in pieces the size of macaroons. Fruit Rolls. - Mix seeded raisins, lemons, figs, dates, citron, or any desired sweetmeats, and chop then together. Knead the whole with enough fondant to give consistency to the mass, which should be very rich and nearly all fruit. Roll this on a molding board dusted with flour or confectioners' sugar into a roll inch thick and 1 inch or more in width.
A cluster of confectionery methods written before candy thermometers were standard equipment, so everything hangs on the old boiling stages. Translate those first and the rest follows.
- The sugar stages, in degreesRoughly: soft thread around 215-230F, blow (or souffle) around 230-240F, hard ball 250-265F, hard crack 300-310F. Old sources disagree on all of these, so treat them as approximate. "Caramel stage" is used loosely in this book: for the dipped fruits and peel it means a syrup boiled until it just begins to take colour, but in the marmalade, simmered slowly for half an hour, it cannot mean a true caramel temperature. Work by thermometer where you can, since sugar goes from pale to burnt very quickly at the top of the range.
- Loaf sugar and XXX sugarLoaf sugar was refined sugar sold in cones and broken into lumps, which is presumably why the first method has you dip each lump in water; granulated sugar by weight is the direct replacement. Confectioners' XXX was a powdered-sugar grade coarser than today's 10X; ordinary powdered sugar is the nearest equivalent, and the modern product contains a little cornstarch that will dull the gloss slightly.
- The sugar-to-water ratioThe printed page gives 3½ pounds of granulated sugar to 1 pint of soft water, as our text now reads. That is in line with the 3 pounds to a pint given below for the peel.
- Soft waterSoft or distilled water is specified throughout; period confectioners held that dissolved minerals clouded a clear syrup. Filtered or distilled water is worth using for the candied fruit; tap water is fine for the fig and date bars, where appearance matters less.
- Drying "in front of a baking oven with the door open"This is a low, dry heat of perhaps 130-160F. An oven set to its lowest mark with the door propped, or a dehydrator at 135F, does the same job in four to eight hours depending on the fruit.
- Four or five days in salt waterThe long brine soak on citrus peel draws out bitterness from the pith. Change the water at least twice daily and keep the bowl refrigerated; left at room temperature for five days the peel can spoil. Three or four changes of boiling water achieves much the same in an afternoon if you would rather not wait.
- Raw egg white coatingThe frosted cherries and raspberries are dipped in unheated white and never cooked. Use pasteurized egg white, or meringue powder made up to a slurry, if the fruit is going to anyone very young, elderly or pregnant.
- Chinese ginger and the fondant"Finely powdered Chinese ginger" is dried ground ginger, not fresh root; a spoonful is assertive, so start with two teaspoons per pound of sugar. The hot soapstone in the fig bars is simply a heat reservoir, so a bowl over barely simmering water is the modern equivalent, and fondant should not go above about 150F or it loses its sheen.
- Yield and keepingKeeping -- Candied peel and candied fruit keep for months in an airtight tin in a cool dry place; the marmalade, sealed only with waxed paper as written, should be refrigerated and eaten within a few weeks.
Candying is a long-established form of sugar preservation in European cookery, reaching the north through Arab and Venetian trade routes and arriving as a medicine as much as a treat: sugared peel, ginger and comfits were sold by apothecaries long before confectioners. By the time this section was compiled, sugar was cheap, refined and no longer sold only in loaves, and the domestic candy kitchen had become a plausible amusement for a household rather than the preserve of a trained sugar-boiler. What dates these instructions is the vocabulary of stages: blow, thread, hard ball, caramel, all judged by dropping syrup in cold water or blowing through a skimmer, a skill passed down from confectioners' apprenticeships. The words survive on the back of candy thermometer dials to this day.