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Outdoor Problems of the Householder: Corbett
Loosen the flaps of bark caused by the intersection of the two cuts with the ivory heel of the budding knife, a 8 a b (a) Cutting the bud; (b) a bud stick. (L. C. Corbett.) a The Stock. The stock for budding should be at least as thick as an ordinary lead pencil. With the apple and pear, second season's growth will be necessary to develop this size. With the peach a single season will suffice. Hence peach stocks can be budded the same season the pits are planted. Consequently the peach is left until as late in the season as is practicable in order to obtain stocks of suitable size. The height at which buds are inserted varies with the operator. In general, the nearer the ground the better. Budding: (a) Inserting the bud; (b) tying; (c) cutting off the top. (L. C.
Corbett.) grasp the bud by the leaf stem as a handle, insert it under the flaps and push it firmly in place until its cut surface is entirely in contact with the peeled body of the stock. Tie a ligature tightly about it, above and below the bud, to hold it in place until a union shall be formed. Bands of raffia or wrapping cotton, about 10 or 12 inches long, make the most convenient tying material. As soon as the buds have united with the stock cut the ligature to prevent girdling the stock. This done, the operation is complete until the following spring. Then all the trees in which the buds have "taken" should have the top cut off just above the bud. The various processes are illustrated.
Cuttings. Some trees, as the willow, cottonwood and poplars, are difficult to grow from seed but may be propagated readily from cuttings.
These should be made some time in February or March, just before the spring growth begins. Select smooth branch or sprout of the previous season's growth and from onea fourth to three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Cut off a section about 10 inches long squarely at both ends with a sharp hatchet. Let the upper cut be just above a bud. Arrange the cuttings with the tops together, tie them in bundles and bury them in moist sand or earth until they are ready for planting. They will not be injured by frost.
Prepare the soil the same as for a seed bed, as soon as it can be worked in the spring. Set the cuttings so that but one bud remains above the surface. They may be merely thrust into the soil-if it is sufficiently mellow-or planted with the aid of the plow or spade. To secure better contact with the soil set cuttings at a slight angle. The growth will be erect. Pack the soil lightly with the foot or tamping block. Give the same after cultivation as for seedlings.
PRUNING ORCHARD AND SHADE TREES Pruning Orchards. -The objects of pruning fruit trees are many. Among them are protection against breakage from wind and loading with snow during storms; checking the growth of the tree to increase its fruitfulness, or, under other conditions, accelerating growth; rejuvenating old trees; limiting the fruit production, to avoid exhausting the trees; and controlling such diseased conditions as pear blight, plum and peach rot and others.
Forming the Head.-For most deciduous, ornamental and orchard trees, the object is to form symmetrical open crowns such that all the space will be occupied and as large a quantity of foliage as possible exposed to sun and air. Avoid forming a thick bushy head such that the branches will shade one another.
Commence to form the head of a young tree at planting time by selecting three to five branches according to the kind of tree to form the main framework for aftergrowth.