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Outdoor Problems of the Householder: Cubic
Barrels 43.5 8.9 4.9 57.3 Cubic yards 12.23 3.26 .70 16.19 Cubic yards 24.5 6.5 31.0 boards, preferably tongue and groove roofers, planed and free from knots.
Also 5 pieces 2 inch by 4 inch by 9 feet rough boards for cleats; 2 pieces 2 inch by 2 inch by 10 feet rough, for edge boards at the sides; and 2 pieces 2 inch by 2 inch by 9 feet rough, for edge boards at the two ends. The object of the edge boards is to prevent the loss of concrete grout by running over the edges.
For the same reason plug or close all knot holes by a strip nailed across them on the under side. The board must be tight to prevent waste of concrete grout, smooth to permit of easy shoveling-which should always be in the direction that the cracks run-firm and level. A board for a 4-bag batch of concrete should be 12 feet by 10 feet in size and will require require a correspondingly larger amount of lumber. Have the boards run the shorter or 10-foot way. a Place the concrete board as handy to the job as may be and store the piles of sand, stone and pebbles close by. Support the board on blocks so that it will be level and cannot sag under the weight of the concrete.
Build wheelbarrow "runs" of good smooth plank 2 to 3 inches in thickness and from 12 to 30 inches wide, depending upon the distance above the ground.
The following are specifications for measuring boxes for sand, stone or gravel.
For a 2-bag batch with the 1:2:4 mixture: 4 pieces 1 inch by 11½ inches by 2 feet, rough (for ends of the sand and stone boxes). 2 pieces 1 inch by 11½ inches by 4 feet, rough (for the sides of the sand box). 2 pieces 1 inch by 11½ inches by 6 feet, rough (for the sides of the stone box). (It should be noted that the 2 pieces 4 feet long and the 2 pieces 6 feet long have an extra foot in length at each end for the purpose of serving as a handle.) For a 2-bag batch with the 1:21:5 mixture: 2 pieces 1 inch by 11½ inches by 2 feet (for the ends of the sand box). 2 pieces 1 inch by 11½ inches by 2½ feet (for the ends of the stone box). 2 pieces 1 inch by 11½ inches by 4 feet (for the sides of the sand box). 2 pieces 1 inch by 11½ inches by 6 feet (for sides of the stone box). (As in the preceding case, the 2 pieces 4 feet long and the 2 pieces 6 feet long have an extra foot in length at each end to serve as handles.) Mixing Concrete. - First place the mixing board and wheelbarrow runs in position and wheel two loads of sand upon the board. Place the sand measuring box about 2 feet from one of the 10-foot sides of the board.
Fill the box, lift it off and spread the sand over the board with a rake in a layer 3 or 4 inches thick. Now spread 2 bags of cement as evenly as possible over the sand. Station two men facing one another at opposite ends of the board and let them start mixing the sand and cement in such a way that each man may turn over the half on his side of a line dividing the board in two. Let each man start at his feet and shovel away from himself taking a full shovel load and, in turning the shovel, not merely dumping off the sand and cement but shaking the materials from the end and sides of the shovel so that they will be mixed as they fall.
Then let the men turn and work back from the board a second time in the same manner. Thus the material will be thoroughly mixed while being shoveled from one side of the board to the other.
After the sand and cement have thus been well mixed, spread them out carefully and add the gravel or stone. Place the proper measuring boxes on one side of the board and fill from the gravel pile. Now shovel the gravel on top of the sand and cement and spread out evenly. Or place the gravel measuring box on top of the level sand and cement mixture and with great care spread the gravel on top without extra shoveling. But this requires more experience. Now dash about three-fourths of the required amount of water over the top of the pile as evenly as possible from a bucket. Take care not to get too much water near the edges lest it flow off and wash away some of the cement. Now start two men in the same way as with the sand and cement and shovel over the mixture.
But let the men dump the whole shovel load instead of shaking it sures OUTDOOR PROBLEMS OF THE HOUSEHOLDER 285 from the shovel and drag it back towards them with the square shovel point. This causes the wet gravel to pick up the sand and cement and ina thorough mixture. Add water, as required, to the dry spots, until the total amount needed has been used. Now turn the mass back again as was done with the sand and cement. Experienced men will mix the concrete sufficiently in three such turnings but if it shows streaky or dry spots, turn it a fourth time and finally shovel in a compact pile. It is now ready for placing, which must be done promptly.
Only two men are required for mixing, but a third man can assist by supplying water and serving other materials and by raking dry or unmixed spots. Four men will be required for the 4-bag batch. This requires a board 10 feet by 12 feet. Start in the middle of the board and let each pair of men mix as for a 2-bag batch. But have them shovel the whole into a big mass each time the concrete is turned upon the center of the board. Placing Concrete.-Place the concrete at once when mixed, since it will set within 20 or 30 minutes. Employ any means of conveying the concrete to the job that is most convenient.
Deposit it in layers about 6 inches thick by means of a shovel or by pouring.
Three kinds of concrete mixtures are used. Each requires slightly different treatment. (1) A very wet mixture, which will run off a shovel when handled, is used for reinforced work, thin walls and the like. No ramming is necessary. (2) An ordinary or medium weight mixture of jelly-like consistency is in most general use for foundation floors and most other purposes. This should be rammed with a tamper enough to remove all air bubbles and fill voids. (3) A dry mixture about like damp earth is used for foundations when quick work is desirable. Spread this in layers 4 to 6 inches thick and tamp until the water flushes to the surface.
The chief difference is that the dryer mixture sets more quickly.
Finishing Concrete. -To give the exposed surface of a concrete wall a smooth finish, run a spade or flattened shovel between the concrete and face of the form and work it up and down. This pushes the stone and gravel back slightly and causes cement grout to flow against the face of the form and harden in a smooth even surface. The same effect can be produced on thin side or partition walls by the use of a board 1 by 4 inches sharpened on one side like a chisel. The flat side should be placed against the form.
To protect new concrete from the sun while hardening, sprinkle it with water both morning and evening for the first five or six days. Or hang pieces of old canvas, sheeting, or burlap an inch or so from the face of the concrete and keep them wet.
Or leave the forms in position for a week or ten days. The object of this precaution is to prevent the outside from drying more rapidly than the center.
Concrete Forms. These are merely boxes or retaining walls of boards which serve to hold concrete in place until it is hardened. They thus fix its shape and give it a surface finish.
Almost any kind of material which will hold the concrete will serve as a form. Sometimes foundations for buildings can be poured in shallow trenches dug for the purpose in the soil. The earth up to the ground line will serve as a form. Molds of wet sand are used for ornamental work.
And metal molds may be had for certain purposes. But most forms are made of wood because it is both cheaper and easier to handle. Use preferably green lumber for forms, either rough or planed as desired. If the forms are to be used many times, as in casting fence posts, or if a handsome smooth surface is desired, matched boards with planed surfaces are to be preferred. But for ordinary work when the forms are to be used but once rough green lumber will answer every purpose. In such cases, use as few pieces of lumber and nails as possible. The forms may then be easily taken apart and the lumber used for other purposes.
If nails are used do not drive them all the way in. Screws are preferable, since they can be more easily removed.
Build the forms strong enough to hold the concrete without bulging.
Otherwise there will be leakage through the cracks. This will cause hollows on the surface and weaken the concrete. As a rule time and money will be well spent in making the forms rigid and true, and giving them an even surface. The oftener they are to be used the more nearly perfect they should be. Fill cracks and knot holes with stiff clay and tack strips over them on the outside.
Cleaning Tools and Forms.-Clean the concrete board at the beginning of each half day's work. Give the forms a dressing of linseed or cylinder oil or soft soap to prevent the concrete from sticking. Never use kerosene. Go over them before they are erected to protect them from dust and dirt. Remove all objects which fall inside the forms while being erected, else they will be cast in the concrete and may weaken it. On taking down the forms, clean them and scrape off the concrete which adheres to them with a sharp short handled hoe. Follow with a wire brush. But take care not to spoil the surface. Repaint with oil or soft soap any spots which appear dry.
Concrete Fence Posts. - Concrete is the best possible substance for ornamental gate and fence posts since they may be cast in any desirable shape or size. The same material may also be used for walks, retaining walls and similar purposes. Thus a uniform and harmonious decorative scheme can be carried out. Concrete posts usually cost less than first class wooden posts, according to locality, but are far more durable since their strength increases with age. They never need repairs as they are injured neither by fire nor weather. Barring unusual accident, concrete posts, once properly seasoned, will last forever. Molds for line fence posts may be of steel or wood and either single or built in sets or "gangs." There are many patented steel molds on the market which have some advantages.