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Outdoor Problems of the Householder: Prune

This will induce the formation of fruit spurs on lateral branches. Observe that the spurs form on wood two or more years of age. But the renewal of the bush from the roots year-by-year is necessary to insure fresh cane to replace that lost by injury, disease or age. Prune a currant bush to six or eight stalks about 18 or 20 inches high. The gooseberry requires less heading back because its normal habit is to produce side shoots freely.

Pruning Deciduous Hedges.-Cut back the plant to about 2 or 3 inches from the ground when transplanted.

Again cut back to 6 or 8 inches in height at the end of the first season. Prune all lateral growth to within 1 inch of the main stem. The second season pinch back the strong upright shoots to divert the sap into the weaker shoots and to promote an even growth in height and desirable breadth of base. During the following winter prune into shape as a pointed pyramid with sides 8 or 10 inches from the center.

Pruning Evergreens. - Evergreens, such as arborvitæ, naturally assume a pyramidical form. Pinch back the more vigorous shoots to encourage lateral growth and trim annually just before growth commences in the spring. A hedge 5 feet high should be about 3 feet wide at the surface of the ground. Hence, prune with this object in view. - Pruning Street Trees. Keep street trees under nursery culture until they reach the height of 8 to 10 feet. Then remove all side shoots to a height of at least 6 feet. Do not cut off the main stem. On the contrary if it is divided into two or more shoots which rival one another, select the most vigorous to remain and remove the others. The object is to cultivate a well defined central stem with symmetrically set branches subordinate to it. Hence, pinch back the more vigorous side branches to divert the sap to the weaker limbs and promote uniform development.

Remove the lower branches from time to time as they interfere with traffic. But cut off first the ends which droop over the street. Postpone the removal of such branches close up to the trunk until it becomes absolutely necessary. To prune large trees remove every second or third branch. But never "head down" the tree, i. e., cut off part of the main stem or of each branch. Seek rather to remove onethird or more of the branches, flush with the trunk, so skillfully that the tree will retain its natural appearance.

Pruning Forest Trees. Set the trees quite closely together and encourage a single upright stem as with street trees. The tops will be drawn toward the light and the side branches in the shade will die off.

Thus natural pruning will be effected.

As the trees become overcrowded, thin by removing inferior specimens.

Later remove branches two or more inches in diameter from especially valuable trees by cutting off flush with the trunk. Cover the wound with paint, tar, or the like. summer Pruning Flowering Shrubs.

Avoid cutting back the growths of flowering shrubs. The flower buds grow on the new wood and the effect of its removal is to lessen the number of blossoms the following year. Instead, pinch back the more vigorous shoots during summer to promote symmetrical growth and remove only the oldest branches or a few of the young shoots if they are too dense. Cut these off close to the root.