Home › Outdoor Problems of the Householder › Outdoor Problems of the Householder: Select
Outdoor Problems of the Householder: Select
To Make a Split Log Drag.-Select preferably a dry red cedar log ten or twelve inches in diameter and seven or eight feet long. Split it carefully down the middle. Red elm or walnut when thoroughly dry are suitable, and either box elder, soft maple or weeping willow are preferable to oak, hickory or ash. Select the heavier and better slab for the front. Bore three holes with a two-inch auger; one, four inches from the end that is to be in the middle of the road, another twentytwo inches from the opposite end, and the third half way between the two. These are to receive the cross stakes. Now bore three corresponding holes in the back slab; the first, twenty inches from the end which is to be at the middle of the road, the second six inches from the opposite end, and the third in the middle as before. Take care to hold the auger plumb so that the stakes will fit properly.
Perspective view of split-log drag. (D. Ward King.) Select for the stakes straight grained timber, which will fit snugly in the two-inch holes. Cut these to such a length that the slabs will be kept thirty inches apart. Taper them gradually toward the end so that there will be no shoulder at the point where they enter the slab. Now bring the holes opposite one another, insert the stakes and fasten them solely by means of wedges. Insert a two-by-four brace diagonally to the stakes at the ditch end, as shown in the illustration. Drop this on the front slab so that the lower edge will be within one inch of the ground.
Rest the other end between the slab and the end stake.
Shoe the ditch end of the front slab with a strip of 4 inch iron or steel about 3½ feet long and 4 inches wide. Bolt this to the front slab with flat head bolts, countersunk. Locate this shoe half an inch below the lower edge of the slab at the ditch end and flush with the edge of the slab at the middle of the road. Insert a wedge between the lower edge of this shoe and the slab so as to give it a set like the bit of a plane.
Lay a platform of 1 inch boards, held together by three cleats, on the stakes between the slabs. Separate the boards an inch or more apart to let the earth fall through them.
Let the cleats clear the stakes and extend them an inch on either side of the finished platform.
Bore another 2 inch auger hole 4 inches from the ditch end of the front slab to receive one end of a trace chain and hold it by a pin passed through a link. Pass the other end of the trace chain over the front slab and wrap it around the rear stake. This allows the earth to drift past the face of the drag.
Plank may be used instead of split logs if preferred by strengthening them along their middle line by a 2 inch by 6 inch strip of timber.
To maintain an earth road in good condition use the drag when the soil is moist but not sticky, and will move freely along the faces of the slabs. Drive the team with one horse on either side of the right hand wheel pit or rut for the full length of the portion to be dragged. Return upon the other half of the roadway. This moves the earth toward the center, gives it a proper crown and fills the ruts. The fresh earth will be packed by traffic.
There are many fine points about the use of the split log drag which can best be learned by experience.
In general, fasten the snatch link or clevis nearer the ditch end, so that the drag will follow the team at an angle of 45°. To deepen the cut lengthen the hitch and vice versa.
As a rule, 1½ trace chains will be sufficient. Ride the drag standing and observe how to deepen or lessen the cut, pass over obstructions and the like, by shifting your positon.
Ditch Cleaner. -To make a ditch cleaner select a 2 inch guide plank 12 feet long and 12 inches wide and attach to it a mold board of 2 inch plank 12 inches by 8 feet. Brace these with a 3 foot cross pièce.
Shoe the mold board with a inch iron plate 4 inches wide by 3 feet long fastened by inch bolts, countersunk. Hollow the cross boards 3 inches on each side of the middle beginning not less than 4 inches from each end, so as not to shorten its bearing against the guide plank or mold board, or decrease the nailing space. This will keep the earth from heaping up against it.
Hitch one end of the trace chain to a bolt about mid-way the intersection of the mold board and guide plank, carry the other over the top of the mold board and fasten to a hook or staple. Add a weight of about 200 pounds over the front end. Use two or more horses according to conditions. Endeavor to maintain a smooth, even surface at the bottom of the ditch over which water can flow smoothly. Hence, pass lightly over soft spots, but cut hard places down to an equal level. To do this ride the ditcher standing and shift your weight forward to depress the point or back to raise it. This type of ditcher should precede the split log drag. It will assist in preserving an even slope from the crown of the road to the bottom of the ditch.
It thus facilitates drainage and prevents accidents from ditches with too abrupt slopes.
LIGHTNING CONDUCTORS The words "lightning rod agent" have become a by-word from the fact that while the need of protec- OUTDOOR PROBLEMS OF THE HOUSEHOLDER 299 tion against loss from fire, or death of persons or stock from lightning strokes, is universally felt, yet the subject, in the minds of most persons, is surrounded with mystery. It has been easy for designing men to play upon this combination of ignorance and fear. Not only have many supposed contracts for lightning rods is Method of placing lightning rods on a building having no cupola or chimney.
Length of building, about 25 feet. (Alfred J. Henry.) turned out to be cleverly devised promissory notes. Most often the equipment provided, if any, has proved inefficient, although the price paid was ruinously high. Hence there is a general prejudice against lightning rods and a widespread belief that, if not precisely worthless, they will not justify the expense of installation. Owing to recent experiments and discoveries any householder who is handy with tools can now equip his premises with efficient lightning conductors at very low cost.
The materials can be purchased from any of the large electrical supply houses in the principal cities or from the big mail order concerns.
To wire a building with lightning conductors requires only a sufficient length of No. 3 or No. 4 doublegalvanized iron telegraph wire, a pound, more or less, of galvanized iron staples, and a few connecting tees, known as "Tee conductors of 1 inch rod." There are three grades of galvanized iron wire known as Extra Best Best (E. B. B.), Best Best (B. B.) and steel. The "extra best best" is to be preferred to either of the cheaper grades of iron wire or to copper. It is a wise economy to pay the difference for the "extra best best" double-galvanized. Observe that there are three standards of wire gauges: Brown and Sharp (B. & S.), Roebling, and the Birmingham wire gauge of England. Observe also that the size of the wire increases as the numbers diminish, i. e., No. 4 wire is smaller than No. 3. Use for small buildings such as hen houses, sheds and small barns or dwellings, No. 4 wire, B. & S. gauge. Or for large barns and residences, No. 3 of the same gauge or their equivalent in other gauges. If a building is large enough to require two vertical wires down each side of the building and wire along the ridge of the roof, it is advisable to use No. 3 wire. a To protect from lightning building having a wooden roof, simply run a wire along the ridge pole and connect with this, by means of tees, one or more side wires. Extend these down the slope of the roof and sides of the building and sink their lower ends in the ground.