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Removal of Spots and Stains: Indelible

Indelible Ink.-Indelible writing and marking inks are mostly finely divided carbon which, as is well known, offers great resistance to chemical agents. India and China inks are of this class. They are composed of carbon, chiefly lampblack or other soot, mixed with gum or glue. Indelible ink for marking textile fabrics is also made of nitrate of silver and other silver salts.

Various other substances are employed in ink making, but those we have given are the most common.

Treatment of Ink Stains. - If the nature of an ink is known, the proper REMOVAL OF SPOTS AND STAINS treatment can, of course, be given; otherwise it is best to first dip the ink in water to test if nigrosine is present.

If nigrosine is not present try oxalic acid, which will remove an old style iron-gall ink or decompose a modern iron-gall ink by removing the black tannate of iron, and leaving the indigo and aniline blue dye stuffs as a stain on the fabric. If this is not effective, try muriatic acid. This will remove the stain of a logwood or copying ink. Follow this with an alkali to remove the effects of the acid. A nitrate of silver ink stain may be removed with cyanide of potassium, which is a deadly poison. Or apply a dilute solution of permanganate of potash with muriatic acid; follow by soaking in a solution of hyposulphite of soda, and afterwards rinse in clear water. If all else fails, cover the spot with dry bleaching powder and moisten with dilute acetic acid. Afterwards apply ammonia, or dip in a solution of hyposulphite of soda and rinse. It must be borne in mind that strong acids and alkalies will injure the texture of animal fibers as wool and silk and bleach colored fabrics. For such articles use pyrophosphate of soda.

If a garment spotted with ink is especially valuable it would be well to try a series of experiments with the same ink on a piece of similar fabric. In the meantime cover the stain with various dry absorbents to take up the excess of ink. After these have done their work, soa the article in milk while the experiments are being made.

Or if it is small dip it immediately into pure melted tallow.

Lemon juice and salt, sour milk, and similar remedies are useful if suitable acids are not at hand, but cannot be depended on to do the work in a thorough manner.

STAINS ON WHITE LINEN OR COTTON Ink Stains. Substances recommended for removing ink from linen are salts of lemon, cream of tartar, citric acid, oxalic acid, lemon juice, vinegar, salt, sour milk, and chloride of lime. The treatment to be employed depends necessarily upon the nature of ink.

Ink stains should be treated as quickly as possible, before the ink has had a chance to set. While fresh, pour over them a quantity of salt, dry starch, or other absorbent, and brush it away as it absorbs the ink. Keep the spots wet, and continue applying the absorbent until the ink is removed.

Or keep the spots wet with milk, and apply dry salt until the stains come out.

Or wash the stains with sour milk and let them soak over night.

Or dip the stains alternately in strong bran water and lemon juice until they disappear.

Or use equal parts cream of tartar and powdered salts of sorrel (salts of lemon), dissolved in the smallest possible quantity of boiling water and applied hot.

Or rinse carefully in clean water and apply oxalic acid. If this produces a red tinge apply dilute aqua ammonia.

Or dip small articles, as laces, handkerchiefs, and the like, in melted tallow and after the stain has disappeared remove the tallow by boiling in hot soapsuds. This last is perhaps the simplest and best of all remedies.

To Remove Marking Ink from Linen. Apply fresh chloride of lime mixed with water. As soon as the color fades, dip into a solution of aqua ammonia or hyposulphite of soda, and rinse well before sending to the laundry.

To Remove Indelible Ink. - Stains made by indelible ink containing nitrate of silver may be removed by applying chloride of copper. Afterwards dip the article in hyposulphite of soda.

Or apply a dilute solution of permanganate of potash and muriatic acid, and follow with hyposulphite of soda. Cyanide of potash is also used for this purpose. It is highly poisonous.

Or melt pure tallow and pour over the ink spot while hot. Remove the tallow by dipping in hot water; repeat if necessary. This is a method employed by many dyers and cleaners, and has the merit of not injuring the fabric. To Remove Printer's Ink. - Soak the spots in turpentine for several hours. Rub them in the turpentine, as in washing. Let dry and brush thoroughly with a stiff brush.

To Remove Iron Rust. -Use lemon juice, salt, and sunshine. Or a strong solution of oxalic acid rubbed in with the fingers. Or equal parts of powdered alum and salt applied dry to the wet fabric.

Grass Stains. - Use tartaric acid or cream of tartar dissolved in boiling water. Apply hot. Or rub lard on the spot when fresh and afterwards wash as usual.

Ink Stains.-Rub promptly with a slice of lemon. Or dip in pure melted tallow. Or apply a saturated solution of oxalic acid or dilute muriatic acid or salts of lemon.

Use dilute tartaric acid for colored goods. If the colors fade, renew with dilute aqua ammonia.

Acid Stains. - Wash the article and dip in Javelle or chlorine water. For colored goods, moisten in dilute aqua ammonia.

Nitrate of Silver or Nitric-acid Stains. Apply iodine and rub briskly with strong aqua ammonia. Or apply a dilute solution of permanganate of potash and hydrochloric acid. Afterwards dip in a solution of hyposulphite of soda and rinse well.

Mildew. - Boil in strong borax water.

Iodine. Soak for an hour or more in a warm solution of aqua ammonia and water. Then while still wet rub dry bicarbonate of potash into the stain until it is fully removed.

Cod-liver Oil. - Add kerosene or aqua ammonia to the suds and boil.

Red Wine.-Bleach with sulphur fumes over an inverted funnel, or dip in Javelle or chlorine water.

Tannin Stains. These may be produced by green chestnut burs, walnut husks, or substances used for tanning leather. Dip in hot Javelle or chlorine water, remove, and rinse quickly. Or apply a strong solution of tartaric acid.

Red Stains from Colored Goods.- The dyes used for colored goods, red threads, etc., sometimes run and accidentally stain white goods. Apply fumes of sulphur through an inverted cone, or a saturated solution of oxalic acid or Javelle or chlorine water. Mud Stains.-Dip the mud stains in kerosene before putting them in the boiler. Add kerosene to the boiling water.

Grease Spots. Apply a hot saturated solution of alum with a sponge or brush, or dissolve in 1 quart of warm water 2 ounces of aqua ammonia, 1 teaspoonful of saltpeter, and 2 ounces of castile soap. Soak the spot in this liquid and sponge.

Or moisten the spot with butter or olive oil and rub with chloroform.

Machine Grease. --Rub sal soda or cooking soda into the spot and pour boiling water through until the spot is removed.

To Dry-clean White Goods. Small mud stains on a clean white skirt may be concealed until ready for the laundry by pipe clay or painting over with white water-color paint.

Or fa clean white skirt or shirt waist is spattered or spotted by mud or soot, let it dry, scrape off with a penknife, and rub over the stain with white crayon or school chalk.

Rub with a clean white cloth until the spot disappears.

To Dry-clean Shirt Waists.-Put 4 quarts of corn meal into a 24-pound flour sack or a pillow slip. Put the waist into this, and rub or knead gently so that the meal will come in contact with all parts of the fabric.

Leave it there for a day or two, then shake and dust thoroughly, and press with a hot iron.

REMOVAL OF SPOTS AND STAINS To Clean Cotton Dress Skirts.- Mud stains may be removed from the bottom of a cotton dress skirt by folding several thicknesses of cloth, laying the soiled parts upon them, and scrubbing with a nailbrush, soap, and water.