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Veal Left-Overs
walnut and set in a baking pan. Pour over them the hot tomato sauce.
Cook in a hot oven for twenty minutes. Serve on a platter garnished with water cress.
Windermere recipe).
Croquettes (English 1½ cupfuls milk, 1½ tablespoonfuls butter, 3 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, Dash cayenne, 2 cupfuls cold chopped veal, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, cupful cold rice, VEAL is the flesh of an immature.egg. Roll into balls the size of a creature, and will not keep fresh as long as that of an older animal. A left-over of beef may be kept a day or two before serving again; it is better to see to the condition of veal twenty-four hours after cooking, especially in hot weather, and serve it as soon as convenient. Veal has little flavor, and requires considerable seasoning. Brown sauce is the general accompaniment to veal at the first cooking. Save every spoonful of sauce to use with it when warming If there is no brown gravy, white sauce may take its place. Veal makes an excellent ragout, seasoned with onion juice and cayenne, minced and poured on toast for breakfast; in a salad or croquettes, it tastes very much like chicken. Add to it a few mushrooms or 2 or 3 spoonfuls leftover sweetbreads, and you have delicious rissoles. It is excellent combined with oysters in a scallop. When preparing it for a salad, be careful to reject all morsels of gristle as well as brown or hard meat. Onehalf measure each of cold veal and finely chopped white cabbage is delicious with a horse-radish dressing. Marinate for two hours, else you will find the salad a tasteless one.
Nut Balls. 1 cupful cold chopped veal, 12 chopped blanched almonds, teaspoonful salt, 1 egg, Pepper, Paprika, 1 cupful tomato sauce.
Mix the meat, almonds, and seasoning, and moisten with the well-beaten Yolks 3 hard-boiled eggs.
Make a white sauce from the milk, flour, butter, and seasonings. To 1 cupful sauce add the chopped meat and parsley. Spread on a plate to cool. Into the cupful sauce beat the rice and the yolks of the eggs pushed through a potato ricer. Spread on a plate to cool. Take a tablespoonful meat mixture and flatten into a cake.
Inside this put a teaspoonful rice mixture rolled in a tiny ball. Wrap the meat around it till covered. Roll in flour, egg, crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Pile cannon-ball fashion on a platter. Garnish with parsley.-MARY KENDALL.
Calf's Liver Terrapin with Mushrooms. 2 cupfuls cold liver, 1 cupful stock, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful salt, MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK 1 teaspoonful paprika, 1 teaspoonful kitchen bouquet, teaspoonful mustard, 2 drops McIlhenny's Tabasco Sauce, 1 cupful mushrooms, 2 truffles.
Boil the eggs hard. Rub the yolks smooth with the butter, salt, paprika, kitchen bouquet, mustard, and tabasco. Add the liver cut in small pieces and the stock. Cook five minutes, add the mushrooms and truffles, and serve garnished with whites of eggs cut in rings.
Veal Omelet.
If you have a cupful of cold roast veal left over, chop it fine, season with pepper, salt, and a dash of paprika; then tuck it between the folds of an omelet. Pour over it before sending to the table a cup of hot, well-seasoned tomato sauce.
Roast Pork.
Four separate dishes for cooked veal sit on this page — nut balls in tomato sauce, stuffed croquettes, calf's liver dressed "terrapin" style, and a filled omelet — along with a short essay on handling the meat. A few of the quantities and one or two of the products need translating.
- The hinge: cold, firm mixturesBoth the meat paste and the rice-and-yolk filling for the croquettes must be spread thin and chilled until solid before shaping. Warm mixtures will not hold a ball around a ball, and the croquettes burst in the fat.
- "Hot oven"For the nut balls, read roughly 400-450F. Twenty minutes at that heat is enough to set the egg-bound meat and reduce the sauce slightly; longer dries them out.
- Deep fatNo temperature is given for frying the croquettes. Use 365–375°F and fry in small batches — these are already-cooked fillings, so you are only crisping the crumb coat, about two to three minutes.
- Kitchen Bouquet and TabascoKitchen Bouquet is a caramel-and-vegetable browning sauce, still sold and used by the teaspoon. "McIlhenny's" refers to the McIlhenny Company, the maker of Tabasco sauce; two drops in the liver dish is a period measure and can be taken literally.
- TrufflesTwo truffles here would have meant small tinned black truffles, which were the usual household form. Fresh truffle at current prices is not a sensible substitute; a spoonful of truffle-scented oil or, more honestly, extra mushrooms will carry the dish.
- "Terrapin" styleNothing in this recipe involves turtle. Terrapin here names a treatment — meat in a rich sauce thickened with hard-boiled egg yolks worked into butter, with the whites cut into rings for garnish. The sauce is bound by the yolks, not by flour, so keep the heat gentle and do not boil it after the yolks go in.
- Missing fractionsA few quantities have lost their fractions in the original -- the croquette rice and the salt in the nut balls (the liver list has the same problem with the mustard). Read the croquette rice as about half a cupful and the salt for the nut balls as about half a teaspoonful, adjusting to taste.
- Handling the vealThe author's warning that veal will not keep as long as beef is sound. Refrigerate cooked veal promptly, use it within two or three days, and bring every one of these dishes to a full 165F when reheating.
- YieldA cupful of chopped veal makes roughly eight to ten nut balls; the croquette recipe, built on two cupfuls of meat, gives ten to twelve and serves four.
Chapters of "left-overs" were a fixture of American household manuals around 1900, when refrigeration was an icebox and thrift was a moral category as much as an economic one. Veal earned its own chapter because it was, by the account given here, inexpensive and readily had in eastern markets, and — as the essay says with some frankness — nearly flavorless, which made it the ideal blank ground for tomato sauce, cayenne, almonds and paprika. The recipe called "terrapin" is worth noticing: diamondback terrapin was a luxury dish of the period, and cooks routinely borrowed its name and its method — meat in a butter-and-egg-yolk sauce, sharpened with mustard and sherry or hot sauce — for cheaper materials such as calf's liver or chicken. The dish is a small piece of evidence about how prestige foods filtered down into ordinary kitchens: not by imitation of the ingredient, which was out of reach, but by imitation of the sauce.