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Vegetables: Eggplant
Baked Eggplant.
For baked eggplant make a dressing as for stuffed peppers, except that a little more salt, pepper, and butter are used. Cut the eggplant in two lengthwise, scrape out the inside, and mash fine, then mix with the MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK dressing and return to the shells.
Place on a pan in the oven. Cook forty-five minutes.-MARIA PARLOA.
Fried Eggplant.
Cut the vegetable in slices half an inch thick and pare. Sprinkle with salt and pile them upon one another; put a plate with a weight on top.
Let them rest an hour, then remove weight and plate. Add 1 tablespoonful water, tablespoonful salt, and teaspoonful pepper to an egg. Beat well. Dip the slices of eggplant in the egg, then in dried bread crumbs.
Fry in deep fat.
Broiled Eggplant.
The eggplant is sliced and drained; then spread the slices on a dish, season with pepper, baste with salad oil, sprinkle with dried bread crumbs, and broil.
Summer Squash.
Wash the squash, cut into small pieces, and cook in boiling water or steam. The cooked squash is mashed fine and seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter.
Boiled Corn on the Cob.
Free the corn from husks and "silk." Drop into boiling water, and cook ten minutes.
Corn Cut from Cob.
Corn may be cut from the cob and heated with butter, pepper, and a little milk. First cook the ears five minutes in boiling water to set the juice. Then with a sharp knife cut through the center of each row of grains, and with the back of a knife press the grains from the hulls. Put it in a saucepan and season with salt, pepper, and butter. Add enough hot milk to moisten well, and cook ten minutes.
Beans with Gravy (Mexican recipe).
Soak 2 cupfuls beans over night; in the morning add a small onion and boil gently until soft; take out the onion and drain the beans. Put a tablespoonful lard in a skillet, and when sizzling hot add the drained beans. Mix beans and lard thoroughly until each bean seems to have a coating of the fat and begins to burst. Add a cupful liquid in which the beans were boiled, and gently crush a few of the beans with the spoon to thicken the gravy. Add the remainder of the bean liquor and a chopped chili pepper, and simmer until the beans are dry. Cidracayote (Mexican recipe).
Take young summer squash, wash and cut into dice. Put in a stewpan a tablespoonful lard, and when hot add teaspoonful finely minced onion; stir, then put in the squash, salt, and black pepper. Fry for ten minutes, stirring often, add tender, sweet corn fresh from the cob, cupful corn to a pint squash. Cook until sufficiently soft to mash.-MAY E.
SOUTH WORTH.
Ejotes con Vino (Mexican recipe).
Cook string beans until tender in boiling salted water. Fry a little chopped onion and green pepper in oil till brown; add the beans, with a seasoning of salt and pepper.
Estilo Seco (Mexican recipe).
Boil a pint pink beans until tender.
Put in a frying pan a heaping tablespoonful lard and butter mixed; drain the beans and put into the boiling fat; add a sliced onion, salt, and red pepper. Stir and brown slightly.
Ten minutes before taking from the frying pan, add 7 tablespoonfuls grated American cheese. Serve with thin slices of hot buttered toast and sliced cucumbers with oil and vinegar.-MAY E. SOUTHWORTH. Suculento (Mexican recipe).
Fry pound chopped salt pork with a sliced onion and 6 green peppers cut small. When brown, add a can of corn and 4 small summer squashes sliced. Cover with milk, and cook slowly two hours, without stirring.
VEGETABLES Beans à la Bretonne (French recipe).
Boil pint haricot beans tilr tender; slice 4 large onions, and fry them in butter till brown. Put the beans and onions together in a stewpan, and add a little strong stock, pepper and salt, and finely minced parsley. Serve hot.
Beans à la Poulette (French recipe).
Put young, tender beans in a stewpan with plenty of water, and a handful salt, and set them over a strong fire. When done, blanch, drain, and put in a stewpan with a bit of butter, an onion or two cut in dice, and previously fried in butter.
Sprinkle in a tablespoonful flour; let them stew a few minutes, but do not allow them to brown; add a spoonful stock, some minced parsley and green onions, with salt and pepper. Let them come to a boil, stirring well, and thicken with the yolks 2 eggs, beaten in a little cream. Just before serving, add the juice of a lemon.
Turnips Glacé au Sucre (French recipe).
Clean young, tender turnips, put them in a stewpan with a small piece of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, a little salt, and pint stock. Simmer forty minutes. When nearly done, place the stewpan over a brisk fire to reduce the sauce to a glaze, rolling the turnips about in it, but with great care to avoid breaking them; dish, and pour the glazed sauce over them.
Stewed Red Cabbage.
Split a red cabbage, cut in thin slices, soak in salt and water, then put in a saucepan with some stock and a little butter blended with flour; add pepper and salt, a glass of vinegar, and a bit of bacon. Stew till tender, take out the bacon, and serve.
Shredded Red Cabbage recipe). (Dutch Cut a red cabbage in shreds and boil till tender; drain as dry as possible; put in a stewpan with a tablespoonful pure olive oil, a tablespoonful butter, 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar and water, an onion cut small, some pepper and salt. Let it simmer till all the liquor evaporates. This is eaten in Holland hot or cold.
Chouffleurs au Gratin (French recipe). 1 cauliflower, 2 tablespoonfuls grated Parmesan cheese, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, Dash pepper and salt, 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice, Yolks 2 eggs.
Boil the cauliflower, drain, put it on the dish in which it is to be served; prepare a sauce of the cheese, butter, pepper, and salt, lemon juice, and yolks of eggs beaten; beat and mix together, pour it over the cauliflower, grate Parmesan cheese over the top, put in the oven, and bake twenty minutes. Brown the top. Artichokes à la Crème (French recipe).
Boil artichokes in salted water; when they are done, drain. About half an hour is sufficient to cook them if they are tender. Toss in butter in a stewpan, add some cream and a little chopped parsley. Thicken the sauce with the yolk of an egg; season with salt and cayenne.
Leland Tomatoes (English recipe).
A run of vegetable recipes clipped from several sources, with the terse shorthand of a compilation: quantities are often given without the word "cup" or "pint," and one line has picked up a stray running head from the page it was printed on. A few notes make the whole sequence workable.
- The garbled line in Baked Eggplant"mix with the MRS. CURTIS'S COOKBOOK dressing" -- appears to be a printer's running head that has fallen into the text. Read it as "mix with the dressing." The recipe simply sends you to the dressing used for stuffed peppers elsewhere in the book, with a little more salt, pepper and butter.
- Salt in the fried eggplant batterA tablespoonful of salt to one egg is almost certainly a compositor's error for a teaspoonful, and the slices have already been salted and pressed. Season the egg wash lightly or not at all.
- Salting and pressingThe hour under a weighted plate is the hinge of the fried and broiled versions. It draws out water so the slices brown rather than steam, and it collapses the spongy flesh so it absorbs far less fat. Pat the slices dry before they meet the egg.
- Deep fatThe book gives no temperature; for a crumbed slice aim at roughly 350-365F. Below that the crumb coat drinks oil; much above it the crumbs darken before the eggplant is tender. Work in small batches so the temperature holds.
- Broiling means grillingIn 1908 this was done on a wire broiler over coals. Under a modern overhead broiler, set the rack about four inches down and turn once; four to five minutes a side is enough for half-inch slices.
- Corn on the cobTen minutes suits the starchier corn varieties of the period. Modern sweet corn bred for high sugar needs three to five minutes in boiling water, and very fresh corn barely needs cooking at all.
- Corn cut from the cobThe two-step method here is sound and still worth doing: score down the centre of each row, then scrape with the back of the knife so the hulls stay on the cob and only the milky interior comes away. It gives a creamier dish than slicing whole kernels off.
- Beans, measured"Boil a pint pink beans" and "pint haricot beans" mean about two cups of dry beans, roughly 14 oz, and both want overnight soaking even where the recipe omits it. Haricot, in English usage of the period, covers dry white beans generally; cannellini or Great Northern will do.
- American cheese and "blanch"The grated American cheese of the period was generally a firm mild Cheddar rather than a processed slice; use a young Cheddar. In Beans a la Poulette, "blanch" most likely means refreshing the cooked beans in cold water rather than a brief pre-cook, since they are already "done."
- Suculento's two hoursTwo hours of slow milk-cooking will reduce the squash to mush and risks the milk catching, since you are told not to stir. Thirty to forty minutes covered on low heat gives the same effect with the vegetables intact.
- Turnips glaceThe recipe calls for young, tender turnips, and forty minutes is long for those; fifteen may be enough, while older, larger turnips will want the full time. Reduce the liquid only at the end, and roll rather than stir.
- YieldsNone are given. As a rough guide, one medium eggplant serves two as a side, and the bean dishes about four; Suculento, with a pound of salt pork and a can of corn, will stretch further.
Household Discoveries (1908) was a compendium rather than a single cook's book, and this stretch of pages shows it plainly: a baked eggplant credited to Maria Parloa, founder of a Boston cooking school and one of the most widely reprinted American authorities of the 1880s and 1890s, sits beside recipes lifted from May E. Southworth, whose One Hundred & One Mexican Dishes appeared in San Francisco in 1906, and beside a set of French and Dutch dishes of the kind that filled the back of every ambitious late-Victorian manual. Eggplant was still a slightly suspect vegetable in American kitchens at this date, generally treated by salting, breading and frying until it tasted of something else. The Mexican entries are more interesting as evidence: bean recipes built on lard, onion and chile, printed for an English-speaking audience with the Spanish titles kept intact, though the oddities of naming (Estilo Seco as a dish name) suggest they passed through several hands on the way.