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Vinegar, Pickles, and Pickling: Immerse
Or for 100 pounds of meat, dissolve in 4 gallons of soft water 7 pounds of coarse fine salt, 2½ pounds of brown sugar, 2 ounces of saltpeter, and 2 ounces of soda. Immerse the hams and pickle for 2 or 3 months, according to their size.
Or rub the hams with a mixture of 1 pound of salt, 1 ounce of saltpeter, and let drain 3 or 4 days. Immerse in brine strong enough to float an egg, and for each barrel or 100 pounds of meat, add 2 quarts of molasses, 4 ounces of saltpeter, 2 ounces of baking soda, and pickle 6 to 8 weeks.
Smoking Pork Hams. Remove the hams from the pickling liquid and hang them up to drain and dry.
When they have drained sufficiently, wipe them carefully with a sponge or clean cloth, and rub thoroughly into the fleshy side a mixture of equal parts of Cayenne and black pepper, especially about the bone and hock.
This will prevent flies lighting upon them. Now sew up each ham in a bag of cheese cloth or scrim to protect it from soot, and hang up in the smoke house under a barrel or any suitable receptacle and smoke-the longer the better. Chips or sawdust from hickory or beech wood or corncobs are the most suitable fuel with which to smoke hams. After being lighted they must be kept smoldering by sprinkling them lightly with water "Hang up Under a Barrel." whenever they commence to blaze.
And the process may be continued for 8 or 10 hours or for several weeks, according to convenience or the quality desired. Some persons who burn wood exclusively as fuel, smoke hams by sewing them up in a coarse cloth and hanging them up in the chimncy, but this method is not suitable if coal is used as fuel in any part of the house. When hams are smoked properly the pyroligneous acid of the smoke permeates the meat. It also dries slowly at the same time. Quick smoking merely coats the outside of the ham, but does not penetrate its fiber.
Or an imitation of smoking may be had by immersing the ham in difuted pyroligneous acid for 2 or 3 hours, or giving it 2 or 3 coatings with a brush. But this method tends to harden and toughen the meat and is therefore not to be recommended for domestic use.
To Store Smoked Ham. - After removing hams from the smoke house, they may be rinsed in cold water, or better still, immersed for 2 or 3 minutes in boiling water, the effect of which is to cover them with a coating of grease and also to kill any germs or eggs of insects that may be present. Next, coat them with flour paste prepared by rubbing up 2 teaspoonfuls of flour in a little cold water, bringing to a boil, and stirring in 1 teaspoonful or more of Cayenne pepper. Cover the hams thickly with this paste by means of a soft brush, and hang them up in the direct sunlight until the paste dries. When dry, sew them up in coarse cloth, and give the cloth a coating of shellac or other varnish.
Or suspend them in a loose bag surrounded by finely chopped straw to the thickness of 2 or 3 inches.
Or place them in ordinary paper flour sacks. Tie tightly to exclude the air and insects and hang up in a cool, dark, well-ventilated place.
Or wrap each ham in ordinary brown butcher's wrapping paper, seal with paste containing Cayenne pepper, and tie with twine. Pack in packing cases or barrels in finely chopped straw. A coating of pyroligneous acid, if carefully applied, so as to cover the entire surface and penetrate all crevices, will effectually prevent contamination of insects. - Curing Bacon.
The process of curing bacon is similar to dry-smoking pork hams. Rub the flitches of bacon with 1 ounce of common salt, 1 ounce of saltpeter, and 1 ounce of brown sugar. Lay them on slats or slanting boards to drain for 48 hours, turning frequently. Next lay the flitches in a deep dripping pan, and cover with the same mixture. Turn and rub the pickle into them 2 or 3 times a day for a week or 10 days..
Let stand in the pickle for about 3 weeks in all, basting them frequently with a large wooden spoon. Remove and smoke as for hams. Place in paper flour sacks and tie tightly to exclude the air and preserve from insects.
This is a full farmhouse curing programme — brine cure, cold smoke, and long ambient storage — written for a household with a smokehouse, a cool cellar and no refrigeration. Several of its steps are outside what can be done safely or verified in a modern kitchen, and the points below explain where it fails rather than how to adapt it.
- Saltpetre, unmeasured and unreliableSaltpetre, inconsistent between versions -- Two ounces of saltpetre per 100 lb in one version and four ounces per barrel or 100 lb in the next is a twofold difference in the curing agent, and the bacon method gives 1 ounce per flitch with no meat weight at all. Potassium nitrate only works by being converted to nitrite by bacteria over time — a conversion no home cook can measure. Modern curing salts are formulated at fixed nitrite concentrations precisely to remove this variability.
- The botulism problemSalted, sugared meat held for two to three months at cellar temperature in an anaerobic brine is the classic environment for Clostridium botulinum. The nitrite in a properly measured cure is what suppresses it; "strong enough to float an egg" is not a measurement of anything except density.
- Cold smoke is not cookingSmouldering chips sprinkled with water to keep them from flaming produce a cool smoke; the book states no temperature and nothing here suggests the meat is cooked. The ham is never brought to any safe internal temperature at any stage — the whole preservation rests on the cure.
- Pyroligneous acidCrude wood distillate, the forerunner of liquid smoke but not the same thing. What was sold under that name was an industrial product of variable composition and would not be food-grade today; brushing it on meat or soaking a ham in it for hours has no modern equivalent.
- Shellac and varnishCoating the storage cloth with shellac or "other varnish": shellac is dissolved in alcohol, and while a food-grade shellac exists as a confectioner's glaze, ordinary varnishes are not food-safe.
- Ambient storage for monthsFlour paste, cayenne, straw and paper sacks are insect barriers. The book's stated aims are keeping flies and beetles off and, for the boiling-water dip, killing surface germs and insect eggs; nothing in the storage method addresses spoilage organisms within the meat.
- The soda"Soda" here is presumably the baking soda named in the second version. The book gives no reason for it, and it plays no reliable preservative role and does not compensate for anything else in the formula.
- If you want to cure hamUse a current recipe with weighed cure percentages, a measured meat weight, a monitored temperature and a stated internal target. The historical method above is worth reading and not worth reproducing.
Whole-ham curing on this scale — 100 lb of meat, barrels, a smokehouse — reflects a period when a farm household killed its own hogs in late autumn and had to make the meat last until the following summer. The brine-and-smoke sequence described here is broadly of a piece with American farm practice in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, and the hickory and corncob fuels named are the same ones still associated with country hams in Virginia and Kentucky. Saltpetre had been used in meat curing for centuries before anyone understood why it worked; the nitrate-to-nitrite conversion was not worked out until the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, and books like this one were still passing along the empirical recipe rather than the chemistry. The pyroligneous acid shortcut is a small window on industrialisation reaching the farmyard — a factory chemical offered as a substitute for a week in the smokehouse — and it is telling that the author declines to recommend it here.