How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Corn and Tomatoes

By mixing tomatoes with corn very little difficulty will be found in keeping. While corn ferments quickly alone, the acid of the tomatoes seems to assist in its preservation. Stew the tomatoes until a proper thickness, then add a sufficient quantity of corn, boil slowly about half an hour. Fill the jars to overflowing, seal as directed.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a home-canning procedure, not a salad, and it rests on an assumption about acidity that food science has since disproved. The instructions cannot be followed safely.

A Little History

Corn was the awkward vegetable of nineteenth-century home preserving. It was notoriously difficult to keep in a jar, and cookbooks of the period record various workarounds: heavy salting, packing in layers with salt, sealing with wax or mutton fat, and blends like this one meant to borrow keeping power from a more acidic partner. The reasoning here is empirical rather than bacteriological — cooks had noticed that acidic foods kept better, and generalised from that without knowing why, since the role of heat-resistant spores in low-acid canned goods was not clearly understood in domestic practice until well into the twentieth century. That corn and tomatoes were paired at all reflects how the two grew together in American kitchen gardens and arrived at the same moment in late summer; the same pairing survives as succotash and as the stewed side dish, both eaten fresh rather than stored. Placing this entry under salads and dressings looks odd now.

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