How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Curried Tomatoes

1 quart of stewed or canned to- 1 cup of rice, matoes, 1 teaspoonful of curry powder, Salt and pepper to taste.

Wash the rice through several waters. Add the powder and salt to the tomatoes, mix well. Put one layer of tomatoes in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of uncooked rice, and then another layer of tomatoes, rice, and so continue, having the last layer tomatoes. Sprinkle the top with bread crumbs. Place a few bits of butter here and there, and bake in a moderate oven forty-five minutes. Serve in the dish in which they were baked. A layer of okra may also be added, and is a great improvement. This makes a nice accompaniment to roasted fowl.

For the Modern Kitchen

A layered tomato-and-rice casserole from the era when curry powder was a single generic blend sold by the grocer. The hinge is liquid: a quart of tomatoes is barely enough to hydrate a cup of raw rice, and the dish depends on a covered pan and long, steady heat.

A Little History

Curry powder reached American home cooking in the nineteenth century largely as a ready-made grocery blend rather than a set of individual spices, and cookbooks of the period used it much as they used mace or celery salt: a teaspoonful to lift an otherwise plain dish. That is its role here, in a vegetable casserole built on two cheap staples. The recipe also reflects a moment when canned tomatoes had become reliable enough to be offered as an equal alternative to stewed fresh ones. The okra variation and the suggestion to serve the dish alongside roast fowl may echo the Southern habit of cooking tomatoes and okra together, though the recipe itself says nothing of its origin.

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