How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Lentil Rolls

1/2 cup of lentils, 1/2 cup of chopped ham, 12 nice, large vine or cabbage leaves, 1/2 cup of rice, 1/2 cup of chopped uncooked chicken, 1/2 teaspoonful of coriander seed, Salt and pepper to taste.

Boil the lentils and rice as directed in the preceding recipe and mix the two together. Mix the ham, chicken,

For the Modern Kitchen

The text as printed breaks off mid-sentence, and the ingredient list omits the lentils themselves even though the method calls for them. What follows is what a cook needs to know to work from the fragment.

A Little History

Stuffed vine leaves belong to the long Ottoman and eastern Mediterranean tradition of dolma -- from the Turkish verb meaning to fill. What is unusual is the interior: classic dolmades lean on rice with herbs, currants and oil, while this version builds a mixed forcemeat of lentils, rice, cured ham and raw chicken. Dried pulses have often been said to carry an association with poverty fare in English-speaking kitchens, and a recipe that dresses them up in a leaf with ham and spice is one way of arguing them onto a respectable table.

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