How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Potato Soufflé

Steam six good-sized potatoes in their jackets. When done peel and mash them. Add to them while hot one tablespoonful of butter, a half pint of cream, one teaspoonful of salt and pepper to taste. Beat till smooth and

For the Modern Kitchen

A rich mashed-potato base of the sort that was folded with beaten egg whites and baked until puffed. The measurements are straightforward once the old liquid units are converted.

A Little History

The vegetable soufflé was a fixture of late nineteenth and early twentieth century American cookery instruction, when the technique — a flavoured base lightened with beaten egg white and set by oven heat — was taught as a method to be applied to whatever was at hand: cheese, spinach, corn, salmon, potato. A soufflé could be made cheaply, turning a few pounds of a staple crop and some cream into a dish fit for the head of the table. The name is simply the French past participle of souffler, to blow or puff up, and it carried enough continental prestige that domestic-science writers used it freely, even when the contents were as plain as this.

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