How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Salted Corn

Cut the corn from the cob uncooked. Put a layer in the bottom of a cask, then a layer of salt, another layer of corn, another layer of salt and so continue until the cask is full. Place a board on top of the corn, on which put a heavy stone and keep it below the brine. This cask may be filled at intervals by lifting the board, adding more corn and replacing it. After packing the corn, if you find in two or three days that there is not sufficient moisture to moisten the salt, add about one pint of water. Then as the juice comes from the corn there will be sufficient brine to cover it thoroughly. When the cask is filled, put a few horse-radish tops underneath the board; this will prevent souring and molding. Cover the cask with a cloth, tucking it in closely around the edges. Then put the board over the whole.

I have known corn, if properly packed, to keep perfectly for two years. In the winter this may be cooked and served the same as fresh corn. Of course it must be soaked over night in water to remove the salt. This is by far a more wholesome way of preserving corn than canning.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a dry-salt preservation method for a low-acid vegetable held at cellar temperature for months, and it gives no ratio of salt to corn, no brine strength, and no storage temperature. Those omissions are the whole problem, and they cannot be patched by adjusting the instructions.

A Little History

Salting was one of the older American ways of keeping garden produce. Layered dry-salt packs in wooden casks or stoneware crocks — for beans, cabbage, and corn — were common farm practice in the nineteenth century, generally worked by feel rather than by weighed measurement, and passed along as personal testimony of the kind offered here: "I have known corn, if properly packed, to keep perfectly for two years." Horseradish leaves tucked under the follower board were a widespread crock tradition, credited with keeping the surface clean. Suspicion of canning as less wholesome appears elsewhere in household writing of the period, when commercial tinned goods had a poor reputation for adulteration and spoilage. The bacteriology that would eventually explain why low-acid vegetables need pressure processing was not yet available to domestic cooks.

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