How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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To Pickle Capsicums

Pick the capsicums just as they are turning red. Make a slit in the sides of each, take out the seeds, throw them into salt and water two days. Drain, put them in glass jars, cover with cold vinegar, cork and stand in a cool place.

They will keep for several years, and as the vinegar is used off cover with fresh vinegar. They may be added to sauces or salads.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

A cold-pack vinegar pickle of the old school: no heat anywhere in the process, no measured salt, no measured acid, and a claim of several years' keeping at room temperature. The ingredients are ordinary but the method is outside what can be recommended now, and the notes below explain where it fails rather than how to rescue it.

A Little History

Pickling in cold vinegar and storing the jar in the larder was one common household approach long before anyone could measure acidity, and the confidence of "they will keep for several years" reflects a kitchen in which vinegar was regarded as an all-purpose preservative rather than a controlled ingredient. Capsicums reached European and then British and American kitchens from the Americas from the sixteenth century onward, and in manuals of this kind they appear largely as a flavouring, which may lie behind the closing note that the pickled pods go into sauces and salads rather than being served on their own. Picking them as they are turning red is defensible horticultural advice: the pods have reached full size, and the walls are still firm enough to hold their shape once slit and seeded. The scientific understanding that made this class of preserve untenable came later; the organism responsible for botulism was identified in the late nineteenth century, and tested, measured home-canning procedures for low-acid vegetables belong to the twentieth.

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