How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

Home › Salads and Dressings › Tomatoes

Tomatoes

Scald the tomatoes and remove the skins. Put them in a porcelain-lined kettle, bring slowly to a boil, simmer thirty minutes. Put them boiling hot into the jars, fasten the lids and stand in a cool place. When cold again screw the lids and keep them in a dark, dry closet. Tomatoes are easiest of all vegetables to keep.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is open-kettle canning, a method that was standard in home kitchens for decades and that no current food-safety authority accepts. The problems are specific and they are not fixed by longer simmering.

A Little History

Open-kettle canning — pack boiling hot, seal, trust the heat — was the ordinary domestic method through the nineteenth century and well into the twentieth, and tomatoes were its poster child. The Mason jar was patented in 1858 and spread from the 1860s onward, and tomatoes are often said to have been among the foods most readily put up at home once it was available: cheap in glut, and acidic enough that failures were, by common account, uncommon enough to breed confidence. That confidence is what you hear in the closing line. Systematic testing of home canning came later, through agricultural experiment stations and extension services, and it steadily narrowed the list of foods and methods considered safe; open-kettle processing was eventually dropped altogether. The recipe also shows its age in the porcelain-lined kettle, specified because tomato acid attacks bare iron and copper and picks up a metallic taste — enamelled and stainless pans have made that instruction invisible rather than obsolete.

← Gumbo and TomatoesPeas →