Breton
The Celts of Brittany have immortalised themselves and their mutton by means of a few onions and haricot beans. In the first place they have invented the Breton sauce. It is the counterpart of Soubise, only that the one is brown, the other white. When these noble Bretons eat roast mutton they make a quantity of their lovely brown sauce, they boil about an equal quantity of white haricot beans, they mix the two together for a garnish, and there is the Gigot à la Bretonne. To be exact, let us say that there are two pints of garnish :-one pint should be the brown purée of onions, the other pint white haricots nestling in the brown.
Breton Sauce is to Soubise what brown is to white. Peel, trim, and mince a good quantity of onions-no stint.
Pass them in butter with a little salt, perhaps also some sugar, till they are of a rich red colour, and then set them to stew in their own juice with a faggot of sweet herbs. When they are done, take out the faggot and add a brown sauce to them-the best is not too good. The books direct that after this the onions and the sauce together should be reduced to a glaze, which is quite unnecessary. The object is to develop the roast flavour of the onions, which is developed enough if they have been fried enough at first. Pass all through a tammy, and finish it with a piece of butter and a squeeze of lemon.