Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Brunoise

CHIFFONNADE, CROÛTE AU POT, JARDINIÈRE, JULIENNE, PAYSANNE, SPRING SOUP.— The basis of all these soups is a brown clear broth or double broth. Vegetables are added according to the season, and they are usually cut into small fancy shapes. They may be carrots, turnips, leeks, onions, celery, peas, kidney beans, lettuce, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflowers, asparagus, tarragon, chervil, parsley, sorrel, and woodsorrel. Do not overload the soup, but make a good selection; and when carrots, turnips, celery, leeks, or onions are used, prepare them first by frying them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a sprinkling of salt, and a teaspoonful of pounded sugar. The other vegetables may be simply blanched. Crusts of Bumper bread may be added, large or small, according to taste. When this soup has an abundance of vegetables and crusts in it-thus becoming almost a garbure-it is sometimes convenient to serve it in two separate tureens, one containing nothing but the clear broth, the other the vegetables and crusts, with just enough broth to float them. It is easier in this way to apportion the soup and the vegetables on each successive soup-plate.

For more about this soup and its varieties, the reader may turn to the Introductory Chapter and to the article on Julienne. As for the name Brunoise, although extremely common, it has not been adopted by any of the classical French dictionaries. Some of the cookery books call the soup Potage à la Brunoy.

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