Carving
Wynkyn de Worde printed in the year 1508 "The Booke of Kervinge." Some of the words are curious, and throw light on the names of dishes which Cassis have been corrupted by process of time. Where the meaning is quite plain the spelling is modernised, but not otherwise. "The terms of a carver be as here followeth. Break that deer-lesche (leach) that brawn-rear that gooselift that swan-sauce that capon-spoil that hen-frusche (fruss) that chicken-unbrace that mallard-unlace that coney-dismember that heron-display that crane-disfigure that peacock-unjoint that bittern-untache that curlew-alaye that felande-wing that partridge-wing that quail-mine that plover-thigh that pigeon-border that pasty-thigh that woodcock-thigh all manner small birds-timber that fire-tire that egg-chine that salmon -string that lamprey-splat that pike-sauce that plaice -sauce that tench-splay that bream-side that haddock -tusk that barbel-culpon that trout-fin that chevintrassene that eel-tranch that sturgeon-undertranch that porpoise-tame that crab-barb that lobster. Here endeth the goodly terms of Carving."
CASSIS-the French name for black currants and for the syrup made from them. The cassis of Dijon has a great reputation throughout France as a cooling drink. There is nothing in England made from the same fruit that can approach it; but that stiff-necked generationthe Commissioners of Customs-have put a prohibitive duty upon it, so that it is impossible to import it. This is because there is a drop or two of alcohol in it. The alcohol is infinitesimal, not enough to upset the equilibrium of a fly, very much less than there is in the cheap clarets which are charged only a duty of 2d. a bottle; yet the customhouse levies a duty on it of 2s. 4d. a bottle-that is, even more than on neat brandy, the duty on which is but 1s. 9d. a bottle. It is amazing that the English manufacturers, being thus protected, are unable to do anything to rival the French in the preparation of this delicious and most Caviare innocent liqueur, which Sir Wilfrid Lawson himself might drink without a suspicion of the still.
CAULIFLOWER is to be had nearly all the year round, and it is at its best in England. The Dutch send to England for their cauliflower seeds, and there was at one time, if there is not still, a considerable export to France of the cauliflowers themselves.
They are to be carefully trimmed and (to eject the insects) soaked for some time in cold water and salt. They are then to be boiled in abundance of water with enough of salt for twenty minutes-more or less. The time must be ascertained by pressure. Drain them well, and send them to table with English sauce acidulated with lemon-juice or vinegar. It can be thus served either for a garnish or for an entremet. If for a garnish, the acid should be scarcely perceptible, and the cauliflower may be a little less cooked than for an entremet.
Cauliflower au Gratin. -Entremet. In this case all the green leaves are to be removed, and the cauliflowers to be boiled as above, but rather underdone. No harm if they are cut into quarters to shorten the time of boiling. Prepare an English sauce according to the receipt, only that less butter may be used, and instead of it two ounces of grated cheese-half Gruyère, half Parmesan being best. Break up some of the cauliflower, arrange it on a dish, and pour over it some of the sauce. On this bed heap up the rest of the cauliflower unbroken; pour over it the remainder of the sauce; powder it with the finest breadcrumbs or raspings, and with more grated cheese ; lastly, bedew it with a spoonful of oiled butter. Put this into a hot oven till it takes a golden colour-say from ten to fifteen minutes. If the colour is imperfect, use the salamander. Serve it in the dish in which it has been cooked.