Cherry
There has long been wanted a good classification of cherries. The least confusing is one lately made by Dr. Robert Hogg. He first of all divides them into Geans and Griottes. In the Geans, the fruit is heart-shaped, or nearly so, and the juice is sweet: in the Griottes, it is round or oblate, though sometimes, as in the Morella, inclining a little to the heart shape, and the juice is acid or sub-acid. There is a marked difference also in the form of the trees. The Geans again are divided into those which have the flesh tender and melting, and those Chestnuts which have the flesh only half tender, firm, and crackling. The first of these are called Geans proper, and are subdivided into Black Geans and Red Geans; the second are called Black Hearts and White Hearts. The Griottes are likewise divided into two kinds, according to the shapes of the trees; and these are again subdivided into Black Dukes and Red Dukes, according to the colour of the skin, Black Morellos and Red Morellos-the last being the Kentish cherry. Thus there are eight kinds: 1. Black Geans; 2. Red Geans; 3. Black Hearts; 4. White Hearts (where it is to be observed that the word heart refers to the shape); 5. Black Dukes; 6. Red Dukes; 7. Black Morellos; 8. Red Morellos.
Cherry Brandy.-Take Black Geans or Black Morellosbut remember that the former are sweet, the latter acid and bitter, and there will be a great difference in the results. They must not be over-ripe. Take off the stalks, and if you choose prick them with a pin. Fill a bottle with them three-quarters, pour in brandy to the neck, cork it up. It will be ready in a month.
Compõte of Cherries. - White Hearts boiled in syrup for three minutes. Sometimes a little noyau is put into the syrup when ready to serve.