Kettner's Book of the Table

Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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Gratin

au Gratin, is something toasted or baked so as to produce a surface that grates. A sole or a cauliflower au gratin is a sole or cauliflower strewed with breadcrumbs or raspings, and baked in the oven to a golden tint. In strict reason, the phrase ought to apply equally to a sole fried with breadcrumbs. But language is not obedient to reason, and custom has ordained that what is *called a Gratin shall be baked.

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