Every food on the Victorian table gets its history, its etymology and a strong opinion — the wittiest cookery book of 1877, written in secret by a Times leader-writer and named for London's most fashionable restaurant.

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1 entry in this part of Kettner's Book of the Table.

XIV

could not obtain without the decoction of fifty hams. A cook is after all a chemist, and in those days the chemistry of the kitchen was…

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